Alessandro Gogna

Biography

Notable ascents

• 1967: Scarason, NE wall, first ascent
• 1968: Pizzo Badile, NE wall, route Cassin, first winter ascent
• 1968: Grandes Jorasses, N wall, route Cassin, first solo ascent
• 1969: Grand Capucin, SE wall, Diretta dei Ragni, first winter ascent
• 1969: Monte Rosa, Macugnaga E wall, via dei Francesi, first solo ascent
• 1969: Matterhorn, Naso di Z’Mutt first ascent
• 1970: Grivola, NE wall, via Cretier, first winter ascent
• 1970: IIa Pala di S. Lucano, SW wall, first ascent
• 1970: Marmolada, S wall, first ascent direct route
• 1971: Pilier d'Angle, full Peutérey ridge, first winter ascent
• 1971: Cima di Terranova Monte Civetta, NW wall, first ascent direct route
• 1972: IIIa Pala di San Lucano, W wall, first ascent
• 1972: Brenta Alta, NE ridge, first ascent
• 1972: Grandes Jorasses, S wall, first ascent
• 1972: Aiguille de Leschaux, NE wall, first ascent direct route
• 1974: IIa Pala di San Lucano, E wall, first ascent
• 1974: IVa Pala di San Lucano, S wall, first ascent
• 1974: Campanile dei Zoldani, W wall, first ascent direct route
• 1974: Palazza, SW wall, first ascent
• 1981: Guglia di Goloritzé, first ascent ever
• 1984: Liss dal Pesgunfi, E wall, first ascent
• 2005: Cima di Pino Sud, E wall, first ascent

  Expeditions

• 1973: Annapurna, attempt on the NW ridge
• 1975: Lhotse, S wall, attempt
• 1978: El Capitan, Salathé route, first Italian climb
• 1979: K2, Abruzzi spur

  Other activities

• Speaker
• Writer, about 200 articles on magazines, newspaper, web
• Trekking tour leader in Asia and Africa, dal 1972 al 1978
• creator and coordinator of outstanding initiatives, such as: Clean Marmolada, Free K2, Save the Glaciers, Levissima for Everest, Club Alpino Italiano cleanup of Baltoro Glacier, ecc.

  Selected bibliography

• Gogna, A., Grandes Jorasses Sperone Walker
• Gogna, A., Un alpinismo di ricerca
• Gogna, A. Reinhold Messner, K2
• Gogna, A., La parete
• Gogna, A., Cento nuovi mattini
• Gogna, A., Mezzogiorno di pietra
• Gogna, A., Rock story
• Gogna, A., Cento pareti di ghiaccio nelle Alpi
• Gogna, A., A piedi in Valtellina
• Gogna, A., Dal Pizzo Badile al Bernina
• Gogna, A., Sentieri verticali
• Gogna, A., Mesolcina - Spluga
• Gogna, A., K2. Uomini. Esplorazioni. Imprese
• Gogna, A., I Grandi Spazi delle Alpi
• Gogna, A., Le Montagne più belle, La Stampa - Priuli&Verlucca, 2006 e 2008
• Gogna, A., La verità obliqua di Severino Casara
• Gogna, A., Insieme in vetta,