Kemben


Kemben or kemban is a female torso wrap historically common in Java and Bali, Indonesia. It is made by wrapping a piece of kain, either plain, batik printed, velvet, or any type of fabrics, covering the chest wrapped around the woman's torso.

Uses

Traditional kemben is worn by wrapping a piece of cloth around the torso, folding and securing the edge, tying it with additional rope, and covering with angkin or a smaller sash around the abdomen. Traditional Javanese batik kemben worn by palace ladies in kratons are mostly this type of kemben. Today, there is also tight-fitted and tailored kemben secured using buttons, straps or zippers similar to the western corset. The kemben of female Javanese traditional dancers are usually made of tailored velvet corsets.
It is akin to European décolletage, however it is more indigenously Indonesian by using local fabrics such as batik, ikat, tenun, or songket, and simply secured by folding and slipping the cloth edges and tying the knot. Traditionally, Javanese women wear two pieces of cloth; the lower one is wrapped around the hips covering lower parts of body and is called as kain or sarung, while the piece that is wrapped about the upper body is called kemben. Kemben is comfortable to wear in the hot and humid climate of tropical Indonesia, as it eases ventilation and perspiration.

History

Prior to the prevalence of kebaya, it is believed that kemben was the most popular and common female dress of the ancient and classical period of Java. It is commonly worn in Majapahit era, all the way to Mataram Sultanate era. Today, this shoulder-exposing gown still feature in many Indonesian rituals, traditional Javanese dances, or palace ceremonies in Javanese keratons.
Kemben may be regarded as an expression of, aesthetics, elegance, and femininity. In recent decades, however, kemben has fallen out of favour among Javanese Muslim women, with many Javanese Muslim women instead donning hijab, which was previously uncommon in Indonesia.