List of marine aquarium fish species


The following list of marine aquarium fish species commonly available in the aquarium trade is not a completely comprehensive list; certain rare specimens may available commercially yet not be listed here. A brief section on each, with a link to the page about the particular species is provided along with references for further information.

Angelfish (large)

These large fish are considered to be quite hardy, but because of their size may present a significant challenge to the keeper. They need huge aquariums, up to 180 gallons to house one for its entire lifespan. Two angels might be kept in the same aquarium provided it is a large aquarium, they are properly acclimated as juveniles, and they have very different colouring and body shape. However, because all Angelfish have essentially the same diet, mixing them is a feat that should be left to only advanced keepers. None are reef safe, and a potential owner should be aware that they need to have plenty of vegetable matter in their diet. They undergo major changes in colouration while maturing, and unless specified given descriptions are for adult specimens.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Blue ring angelfish, annularis angelfishPomacanthus annularisNo
Arabian angelfish, Asfur angelfishPomacanthus asfurNo
Bellus angelfishGenicanthus bellusYesLight blue all over. Exhibits strong sexual dimorphism: females have wide black bands, males' bands are orange.
Blue angelfishHolacanthus bermudensisNoBlue Angelfish has an overall aqua hue with a yellow shimmer and yellow edges on the fins and scales. The Blue Angelfish does not have the striking blue crown or other blue highlights of the Queen Angelfish. This species has been known to reproduce with the Queen Angelfish, making a half breed that looks like a mixture between the two species.
Bluespotted angelfishChaetodontoplus caeruleopunctatusNo
Blueface angelfishPomacanthus xanthometoponWith Caution
Cortez angelfishPomacanthus zonipectusNoDarkly hued with yellow stripes.
Emperor angelfishPomacanthus imperatorNoJuveniles are black with blue-white spiraling; adults are blue with yellow stripes, accented with white and black and a blue mask. Will easily be the dominant angelfish if housed with other angels.
French angelfishPomacanthus paruNoJuveniles are black with 3 yellow vertically running stripes, may also display blue on pelvic fins. Adults lard black with white vertical stripes.
Gray angelfishPomacanthus arcuatusNoLight grey with dark spots and bluish/grey mask over face. Closely related to French Angelfish.
Griffis angelfishApolemichthys griffisiNoAn ashen white angel with thick black bands and spots, it is a rare find within the aquarium trade.
Half-moon angelfish, Yellow bar angelfishPomacanthus maculosusNoBlue with yellow splotch-like marking on side.
Koran angelfishPomacanthus semicirculatusNoGrey towards the face, becoming a navy blue towards the caudal fin with striking iridescent blue accents throughout.
Majestic angelfish or blue girdled angelfishPomacanthus navarchusNoYellow dorsal and caudal fins connecting to "saddal" with dark blue dots. Dark blue underside and anal fin. Electric blue separating yellow and dark blue.
Passer angelfish or King angelfishHolacanthus passerNoVery dark blue with yellow caudal fin and distinctive white stripe.
Personifer angelfish or Queensland yellowtail angelfishChaetodontoplus meridithiiNo
Queen angelfishHolacanthus ciliarisNoTan coloured with yellow caudal fin and neon blue outlined fins. This species has been known to reproduce with the Blue Angelfish, making a half breed that looks like a mixture between the two species.
Rock beautyHolacanthus tricolorNo
Royal angelfishPygoplites diacanthusNoOrange and blue striped with dark blue dorsal fin and lemon yellow caudal fin.
Scribbled angelfishChaetodontoplus duboulayiNo
Japanese swallow angelfishGenicanthus semifasciatusYesBlack and tan striped back with yellow blaze beginning at the mouth and tapering off towards the centre of the side, with light blueish grey underside. Has distinctively shaped tail resembling that of a swallow.
Yellowtail angelfishApolemichthys xanthurusNo

Angelfish (dwarf)

Although Dwarf Angelfish are smaller and generally more manageable than their larger counterparts, they still have some specific care requirements. They are omnivores, but plenty of vegetable matter, preferably in the form of macroalgae, should be provided for their grazing pleasure. Their suitability for reef tanks is hotly debated, so add at your own risk. Specimens that have been successfully maintained in reef aquaria include the Flame and Coral Beauty angels. However, for obvious reasons they should not be put into tanks with expensive decorative macroalgae.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Barred angelfishCentropyge multifasciataWith cautionWhite fish with vertical black stripes that change to yellow at the belly
Bicolor angelfishCentropyge bicolorWith caution
Blue Velvet AngelfishCentropyge deborae
Brazilian flameback angelfishCentropyge aurantonotusWith caution
Coral beauty angelfishCentropyge bispinosaWith cautionReddish body with blue back and orange fins. A shy fish that prefers multiple hiding locations.
Cherubfish or Pygmy angelfishCentropyge argiWith cautionBlue colored body with an orange yellow head.
Eibli angelfishCentropyge eibliWith cautionTan coloured body with vertical brown stripes and large distinctive black splotch covering the back of the fish, including the caudal fin.
Flame angelfishCentropyge loriculaYesVivid orange-red with vertical black stripes and blue patches toward the end of the dorsal and anal fins.
Half-black angelfishCentropyge vrolikiWith cautionAnterior is gray to pearly white with orange accent around eye, posterior is deep black.
Herald's angelfishCentropyge heraldiWith cautionCompletely lemon yellow, with a brown marking around the eye.
Keyhole angelfishCentropyge tibicenNoCentropyge type species. Overall black with an elongate vertical black blotch on the middle of the upper sides. When small, mainly black with a white bar. Dorsal and anal fins with submarginal blue line; most of the pelvic and the anterior portion of the anal fin yellow. Caudal fin with submarginal blue line.
Lemonpeel angelfishCentropyge flavissimaWith cautionBright yellow with distinctive dark semicircle by operculum.
Multicolor angelfishCentropyge multicolorWith caution
Orange-back angelfishCentropyge acanthopsWith cautionDark blue with golden yellow blaze running from the face down the dorsal fin, with a colourless caudal fin.
Pacific pygmy angelfishCentropyge flavicaudaWith caution
Potter's angelfishCentropyge potteriWith cautionSimilarly coloured to the Coral Beauty, but with a blue body and reddish fins.
Rusty angelfishCentropyge ferrugataYesTan coloured body with dark spots and a reddish tint around the anal fin.
Venustus angelfishCentropyge venustusWith caution12 cm

Anthias

Although Anthias resemble damsels in shape and size, the two should never be confused. Anthias are finicky and many starve to death in captivity. In the wild, they eat zooplankton, and will not accept anything else in the aquarium. They also need to be fed nearly constantly, three times a day at least. The best way to ensure the health and longevity of an Anthias is to attach a refugium where copepods can be grown to "drip" into the display tank. Unlike many other saltwater aquarium inhabitants, they can be kept in groups.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Bartlett's anthiasPseudanthias bartlettorumYesBack and face light yellow, underside pink with a swallowtail-shaped caudal fin.
Bicolor anthiasPseudanthias bicolorYesSimilarly shaped and coloured to Bartlett's Anthias, but with a slightly more rounded back.
Cooper's anthiasPseudanthias cooperiYesOrange back and finnage with white patch below the mouth running down toward the anal fin with pink sides.
Diadem anthiasPseudanthias parvirostrisYesPink fish with yellow streak on top of head running along the lateral line. Caudal fin is red with yellow tips.
Orangehead anthiasPseudanthias heemstraiYesPink underside with orange back and mask, dark red splotch on caudal fin, along with iridescent blue anal and pelvic fins.
Redbar anthiasPseudanthias rubrizonatusYesTannish-pink with a single vertical red stripe and a dorsal fin with the skin between the rays pulled back like on a [|lionfish].
Lyretail anthias, Sea GoldiePseudanthias squamipinnisYesFemales are orange with lyre-shaped caudal fin. Males are fuchsia with red markings on fins
Squareback anthiasPseudanthias pleurotaeniaYesRed back and pink underside with distinctive blue square shaped marking and blue fins.
Stocky anthiasPseudanthias hypselosomaYesOrange back with cream colored underside. As its name suggests, slightly stockier than other Anthias.
Threadfin anthiasPseudanthias huchtiiYesOlive green with black caudal fin and red stripe running from the eye to the pectoral fin.

Bass and groupers

In this exceedingly large group of fish, few are considered proper aquarium inhabitants, for various reasons including diet and size. Basses vary greatly from species to species. Appropriate research should be done before purchasing a specimen. Many unsuspecting hobbyists bring home cute little specimens of popular aquarium fish such as the lyretail grouper, only to realize several months later that they do not have the resources to care for a meter-long that may cost hundreds of dollars a month to feed.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
African grouperCephalopholis taeniopsNo
Vermillion seabassCephalopholis miniata
Blacktip grouperEpinephelus fasciatusNoThe tips of the spines of the dorsal fin are black, and it may have a dark red cap above the eyes. There is a variant with a uniformly pale body except for the frontal part.
Blue and Yellow grouperEpinephelus flavocaeruleusNo
Blue dot grouperCephalopholis argusNoDeep black to tan fish with blue spots throughout.
Blue line grouperCephalopholis formosaNoDark tan with horizontal blue stripes that are not particularly straight. The caudal fin has more of these stripes, and they radiate from the base of the fin out to the tips.
Chalk bassSerranus tortugarumYesBlue iridescent body with distinctive black topside that is interrupted by small vertical blue stripes.
Coney grouperCephalopholis fulvaNo
Golden grouperMycteroperca rosaceaNo
Golden stripe soapfishGrammistes sexlineatusNoChocolate brown with light yellow horizontal stripes. Similar in patterning to C. argus.
Harlequin bassSerranus tigrinusYesVery striking black and white checkerboard pattern all over, with very long tapering nose.
Leaflip grouperPogonoperca punctataNoSports a large, hinged mouth and is tan with little spots. Has brown triangle shaped markings down the spine.
Marine betaCalloplesiops altivelisYes
Miniatus grouper or Vermillion seabassCephalopholis miniatusNoOrange to red with large blue spots throughout.
Orange spot grouperCephalopholis panamensisNo
Panther grouperCromileptes altivelisNoGorgeous pure white fish with black spots and a distinctive "hump" on the head, leading to a popular common name, "Humpback Grouper".
Painted comberSerranus scribaNoLarge fish with classic Bass body, Silvery in colour with vertical tan stripes and a blue underside.
Polleni grouperCephalopholis polleniNo
Red flag grouperCephalopholis urodetaNoVery similar to C. miniatus, but the caudal fin is dark.
Lyretail grouperVariola loutiNoSilver back changing to red around the underside, darkening toward the caudal fin, which is lyre-shaped with neon green edging.
Saddle grouperPlectropomus laevisNo
Spotted grouperEpinephelus summanaNoDark black fish with many light green spots all over body, increasing in number toward the posterior.
Strawberry grouperCephalopholis spiloparaeaNo
V tail grouperCephalopholis urodelusNo

Basslets and assessors

Basslets and Assessors are small, long bodied fish strongly resembling Anthias. Their care requirements, however, are closer to those of damsels. They should be kept individually, and generally not with other fish of similar shape and colour. Feeding is easy: they will generally eat any meaty foods offered. Good water quality should be maintained at all times.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Black cap grammaGramma melacaraYesPurple with a black mask beginning at the mouth and ending at the base of the dorsal fin.
Blue assessorAssessor macneilliYesEntirely navy blue with white edging of the dorsal fin.
Royal grammaGramma loretoYesPurple head and anterior, abruptly changing to yellow about halfway down the body. Has black marking through eye and another on the dorsal fin. Do not confuse with the Brazilian Gramma or the Bicolor Dottyback.
Brazilian grammaGramma brasiliensisYesVery similar to the royal gramma, however the change from purple to yellow occurs farther down the body and the black markings are absent.
Yellow assessorAssessor flavissimusYesBright lemon yellow with peach fringing of the dorsal fin and around the eye.

Batfish

Batfish are gorgeous and striking fish that are not common in aquaria for one major reason: they get huge. A two or three hundred gallon tank is needed for one, minimum, and larger is better. They start out as tiny, manageable-looking cuties, which often fools aquarists into purchasing them for their small aquariums. However they quickly grow to gargantuan proportions, and require large amounts of food as well as space, so beware. They are not reef safe and should be fed plenty of large meaty foods.
Batfish change greatly as they grow, however the potential aquarist is most likely to see them in their juvenile form, so that is the description of the colouration here. They all have generally the same body shape: disk-like with tall dorsal and anal fins, similar to a Freshwater Angelfish.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Orbiculate batfishPlatax orbicularisNoBrown with generally random black markings resembling a rotting leaf.
Dusky batfishPlatax pinnatusNoDark black body completely edged by distinctive yellow and orange.
Teira batfishPlatax teiraNoSilver with black fins and a black stripe across the face.

Blennies and engineer gobies

are popular aquarium fish, and for good reason. Most of them are peaceful to other fish, while very aggressive to other blennies which has a similar shape. Some blennis are colorful, and many are downright helpful. For example, the aptly named Lawnmower Blenny will keep your green algae well trimmed and presentable. With the exception of Fang Blennies, Blennies are totally reef safe- in fact a reef environment is really best for them because they can be shy and the intricate rockwork of a reef provides ample hiding spaces. They are omnivores and should be fed a varied diet of frozen or live foods and plant matter. Blennies do not have teeth or functional jaw, so food must be small enough for them to swallow whole.
Blennies are often confused with Gobies, but there is an easy way to tell the difference. Gobies have two distinct dorsal fins, Blennies have a single dorsal fin that runs the length of their body. Also, Gobies' pelvic fins are fused to form a sucker, similar to Remoras.
The engineer goby is a close relative of cichlids and leaf fishes, the juvenile can often be found in aquarium trade, while the adult is rare.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Spinyhead blennyAcanthemblemaria spinosaYesBrown checkered body with distinctive yellow frills on head.
Bicolor blennyEcsenius bicolorYesCharacterized by the striking contrast of a blue head and upper torso followed by a yellow orange lower torso.
Black combtooth blennyEcsenius namiyeiYes
Blackline fang blennyMeiacanthus nigrolineatusNoYellow bodied with bright blue mask and dark black line running from the eye to the caudal fin.
Black sailfin blennyAtrosalarias fuscusYes
Blue & gold blennyEnchelyurus flavipesYes
Bundoon blennyMeiacanthus bundoonNoBlack with lighter patch over caudal fin. Very distinctive swallowtail caudal fin.
Canary fang blennyMeiacanthus oualanensisYesSimilarly shaped to M. bundoon, but canary yellow.
Diamond blennyMalacoctenus boehlkeiYesGray with black splotches, and a yellow mask. Shaped more like hawkfish than a blenny.
Ember blennyCirripectes stigmaticusNo
Lawnmower blennySalarias fasciatusYesTan and brown striped and spotted with iridescence. Requires Mature Tank.
Linear blennyEcsenius lineatusYes
Midas blennyEcsenius midasYesAlthough often seen yellow, this fish has the ability to change its color to match the surroundings. It has a very distinctive swallowtail shaped caudal fin.
Molly Miller blennyScartella cristataYesMottled tan, white, and black covering the body and fins.
One spot blennyCrossosalarias macrospilusNo
Red lip blennyOphioblennius atlanticusYesBlack to grayish yellow with red patch over mouth.
Red Sea mimic blennyEcsenius gravieriSky blue anterior fading to yellow towards the tail, with a black stripe running the eye to the base of the caudal fin.
Sailfin blennyEmblemaria pandionisYesVery similar to Salarias fasciatus but slightly darker and with a much larger dorsal fin.
Segmented sailfin blennySalarias segmentatusYes
Starry blennySalarias ramosusYes
Striped blennyMeiacanthus grammistesYes
Tail spot blennyEcsenius stigmaturaYesDrab tan all over with dark spot at the base of the caudal fin and a light yellow line through eye.
Two-spot blennyEcsenius bimaculatusYesThe top half of this fish is black towards the front and fades to white closer to the tail. The bottom half is white with two distinctive black spots right under the pectoral fins.
Engineer gobyPholidichthys leucotaeniaYesNot actually a blenny but from closely related family Pholidichthys. Juvenile has black eel-shaped body with a distinctive white stripe running down the body. Adults are yellow and black striped.

Boxfish and blowfish

Members of the family Tetraodontidae, Boxfish, Blowfish or Pufferfish and their cousins Cowfishes and Porcupinefishes can be very personable and quirky pets, for the prepared.
They are not thought of as an ordinary aquarium tank mate, but are quickly gaining popularity. They do pose a hazard in the community tank however. They are capable of releasing a very powerful toxin which can kill other fish and in some cases, the boxfish itself. They generally only use it when threatened or dying, but can become disturbed easily with aggressive tank mates or overcrowded aquarium. Generally they are reef safe, though they will pick at invertebrates if not fed well enough.
Many people think puffed up Pufferfish, like in the picture, are cute, but an owner should never subject their pet to this as they are often unable to expel the air should they be out of the water. To prevent this, never remove a puffer from the water.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Golden pufferArothron meleagrisNo
Hawaiian blue pufferCanthigaster papuaNo
Hawaiian saddle pufferCanthigaster coronataNo
Hawaiian spotted pufferCanthigaster jactatorNo
Helmet cowfishTetrosomus gibbosusCautionTan with dark speckles and brown spots at the base of the caudal fin.
Immaculate pufferArothron immaculatusNo
Longhorn cowfishLactoria cornutaCautionGrayish tan with very distinctive "horns" near the eyes and under the caudal fin.
Scribbled boxfishOstracion solorensisCautionDark navy blue with iridescent "scribbling" and spots.
Dogface pufferfishArothron nigropunctatusCautionTan with a brown mask over eyes and other over mouth. Also has yellow markings on the pectoral and dorsal fins.
Map pufferArothron mappaNo
Porcupine pufferfishDiodon holocanthusNoTan with slightly darker spots throughout and very conspicuous spines that lay flat against the body. When puffed up, the spikes stand up and make the fish completely inedible.
Spotfin porcupinefishDiodon hystrixNoWhite and covered in small black spots.
Sharpnose pufferfishCanthigaster rostrataCautionCream, with reddish purple topside and underside, and yellow on the caudal fin.
Star pufferArothron stellatusNo
Stars and stripes pufferArothron hispidusNo
Striped dogface pufferArothron manilensisNo
Valentini pufferfishCanthigaster valentiniCautionTan with giraffe-like spots and dark brown markings that resemble saddles over the back. Has distinctive bright green eyes.
Whitebelly pufferCanthigaster bennettiNo
Yellow boxfishOstracion cubicusCautionUsually seen as a juvenile, bright yellow with little black spots. When it reaches maturity it is gray with yellow lines and pink lips.

Butterflyfish

When properly cared for, Butterflyfish can make beautiful and distinctive additions to fish only marine aquariums. Specimens often grow to large sizes and are not well suited to smaller aquariums. Butterflyfish can be fussy and overparticular, but when fed a varied diet and kept in pristine conditions they will usually thrive. Some species in this family do not do well in captivity, and potential keepers must take care to purchase only those species that have a fighting chance. When selecting Butterflyfish especially, specimens presenting any sign or signs of mishandling are to be avoided.
The following species are relatively hardy and experienced aquarists should have no trouble with them, so long as they are diligent.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Copperband butterflyfishChelmon rostratusCautionSilver with black edged gold stripes, a long nose, and a black eyespot on the dorsal fin.
Schooling bannerfishHeniochus diphreutesNoSometimes referred to as the "Poor Man's Moorish Idol" because of the resemblance to one. White and black striped with yellow caudal fin and a dorsal fin that forms a long, thin banner.
Longnose butterflyfishForcipiger flavissimusNoFrom the pectoral fins forward, black above the eye and silver below, with an exceptionally mouth. Past the pectoral fins, bright yellow with an eyespot on the anal fin.
Raccoon butterflyfishChaetodon lunulaNoVery distinctive and complexly colored. Is mostly yellow with a darker saddle and a black and white mask.
Redback butterflyfishChaetodon paucifasciatusNoWhite with black stripes that form chevrons on the side and a bright red patch on the posterior.
Merten's butterflyfishChaetodon mertensiiNoWhite with fuzzy black stripes and a yellow posterior. Also has a black line through the eye.
Teardrop butterflyfishChaetodon unimaculatusNoCompletely yellow with the exception of black stripes at the base of the caudal fin and through the eye, and an eyespot directly below the dorsal fin.
Latticed butterflyfishChaetodon rafflesiiNoVery similar to C. unimaculatus, but with scales that are brighter than the body, forming a lattice-like pattern, and lacking the eyespot.
Pacific double saddle butterflyfishChaetodon ulietensisNoSilver with two dark saddles over the body and yellow dorsal and caudal fins.
Sickle butterflyfishChaetodon falculaNoOften confused with C. ulietensis, but easily distinguished. The saddles are wedge shaped rather than stripes and do not reach the underside. Overall more yellow coloring.
Auriga butterflyfishChaetodon aurigaNoWhite anterior with thin black stripes at 45 and 120 degree angles from the head. Posterior is yellow, but with a black wedge shape where the stripes meet the yellow coloring.
Tinker's butterflyfishChaetodon tinkeriNoWhite with small black spots, a yellow mask, and a black dorsal fin.
Masked butterflyfishChaetodon semilarvatusNoBright lemon yellow with subtle vertical orange stripes and a black splotch behind the eye.
Reef butterflyfishChaetodon sedentariusYes15 cm
Four-eyed butterflyfishChaetodon capistratusNo15 cm
Banded butterflyfishChaetodon striatusNo16 cm
Saddleback butterflyfishChaetodon ephippiumCaution30 cm

Cardinalfish

One of the few groups of shoaling fish commonly available to marine aquarists, Cardinalfish are nocturnal and tend to be quite shy. They require meaty foods and will often not take prepared foods such as flakes and tablets. For the best chance of success, keep a wide variety of frozen foods on hand. In the event of a hunger strike, they will almost always take adult brine shrimp. As far as other care requirements they are similar to damsels: not picky. So long as they are properly acclimated, they tolerate a wide range of parameters. A marine aquarist should watch the ammonia/nitrite levels of the environment, as cardinalfish are particularly sensitive to these chemicals.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Fragile cardinalfishApogon fragilisYes
Banggai cardinalPterapogon kauderniYesBlack and silver striped with very tall fins and many white spots. Wild populations have been decimated, consider captive bred specimens. Banggai Cardinalfish are mouthbrooders.
Blackstripe cardinalfishApogon nigrofasciatusYesBody completely covered in horizontal yellow and black stripes, with red fins.
Bluebarred cardinalfishApogon floresYes
Bluestreak cardinalfishApogon leptacanthusYes
FlamefishApogon maculatusYesBright red with black spots at the base of the caudal fin, under the second dorsal fin, and on the operculum.
Frostfin cardinalfishApogon hoeveniYes
Gilbert's cardinalfishApogon gilbertiYes
Girdled cardinalfishArchamia zosterophoraYes
Orange-striped cardinalfishApogon cyanosomaYesLight yellow with iridescent yellow horizontal stripes.
Orbic cardinalfishSphaeramia orbicularisYesA thin, dark vertical 'waistband' with scattered dark spots toward the tail.
Pajama cardinalfishSphaeramia nematopteraYes, caution with small shrimpThis fish displays three distinct color bands: the first, stretching from the nose to base of the first dorsal fin, is a tannish peach. The second, a thin band which runs down the center of the fish, is chocolate brown, and the posterior of the fish is white with brown spots.
Ochre-striped cardinalfishApogon compressusYesAlmost identical to A. nigrofasticus, but with blue eyes.
Ringtailed cardinalfishApogon aureusYesYellow body with a black stripe at the base of the caudal fin and iridescent blue streaks across the eye.

Chromis

Chromis are perhaps the ultimate reef fish. Generally peaceful, most species are easy to take care of and quite colorful. Like anthias, they will school, but in many cases this tendency disappears as they age. They are, nevertheless, at least ambivalent with their own species, as well as completely reef safe. Like Damsels and Anemonefish, their close cousins, Chromis are omnivores and will accept most foods offered. A flake staple is usually sufficient, but for best color and health supplement with frozen and live foods when possible.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Ambon chromisChromis amboinensisYes
Barrier reef chromisChromis nitidaYes
Black and gold chromisNeoglyphidodon nigrorisYesMostly silver, but with a large patch of yellow around the caudal fin and a distinct black line on the operculum.
Black bar chromisChromis retrofasciataYesYellowish with bright blue iridescent pelvic fins and a distinct black bar at the base of the caudal fin..
Blue chromisChromis cyaneaYesBright blue all over, although lighter toward the front.
DamselfishChromis chromisYesCompletely black. Despite the name, this is actually a chromis, in fact, it is the chromis.
Green chromisChromis viridisYesGenerally bluish green, but some specimens may be spring green.
Half and half chromisChromis iomelasYesCompletely black from the middle of the dorsal fin to the nose, completely white from the middle of the dorsal fin to the end of the caudal fin.
Limbaughi chromisChromis limbaughiYesDark navy blue with bright yellow spot that covers the dorsal fin and much of the posterior.
Lined chromisChromis lineataYes
Paletail chromisChromis xanthuraYes
Black-axil chromisChromis atripectoralisYes12 cm
Spiny chromisAcanthochromis polyacanthusYesDark chocolate brown, slightly lighter around the pectoral fins.
Sunshine chromisChromis insolatusYesRather drab tannish-orange throughout.
Yellowspotted chromisChromis flavomaculataYes
Black and white chromisChromis margaritiferYesSimilar to half and half chromis, but there is more black.

Clownfish

Clownfish, more technically known as Anemonefish, are the classic aquarium fish. Both hardy and attractive, they are perhaps best known for their symbiotic relationship with Sea Anemones, a relative of coral. In the wild, Anemonefish are always found with a host, leading many potential keepers to believe that an anemone is necessary to keep them. Anemonefish are easy to keep, but their cnidarian counterparts are inordinately finicky and need high light levels, and luckily Anemonefish will thrive without them. Aquarists often find that Anemonefish will host in other things, from corals and Feather Duster Worms to powerheads and other equipment.
Anemonefish care is identical to that of Damselfish, as they are actually very closely related.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Cinnamon anemonefishAmphiprion melanopusYesDark orange body becoming black towards the caudal fin, with a bright white stripe running from the front of the dorsal fin to the pectoral fins and golden colored fins.
Clarkii anemonefishAmphiprion clarkiiYesBlack or dark brown with bright yellow finnage and two thick white stripes running perpendicular to the body.
OcellarisAmphiprion ocellarisYesBright orange or yellow body with white stripes. Fins are orange, rimmed with black. A. ocellaris from northern Australia are black.
Maroon clownfishPremnas biaculeatusYes but aggressiveMaroon to bright red with three very thin white stripes.
True PerculaAmphiprion perculaYesNearly identical to A. ocellaris, but the white stripes are edged with black.
Pink skunk anemonefishAmphiprion perideraionYesPink to orange body with one white stripe over the operculum and another running from the tip of the snout, along the back to the dorsal fin. All fins are white.
Tomato clownfishAmphiprion frenatusYesBright red with a single white stripe running from the front of the dorsal fin to the bottom of the head.
Saddleback anemonefishAmphiprion polymnusYesSimilar to A. ocellaris and percula, but the second stripe does not extend the full with of the body and instead resembles a saddle.
Sebae anemonefishAmphiprion sebaeYesBlack or dark brown body from above the pectoral fin, yellow below. Has two white stripes, the second resembling that of A. polymnus.

Damselfish

All Damselfish can be considered reef-safe, sometimes excluding larger, more aggressive Dascyllus varieties. Some Damselfish will host in anemones like clownfish. Most Damselfish are aggressive and difficult to catch once you put them in an aquarium.
Damselfish change gender as they grow larger and older. Small damselfish are ungendered. Eventually, they become males if no males prevent them from doing so. One or sometimes two males live with a female and guard over the eggs. Females are the largest fish and dominant over the males and juveniles. They will not allow other females into an area they have claimed as their territory without a fight. They may not allow new males or juveniles, either. Aggression increases with each change.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Ambon damselPomacentrus amboinensisYes
Azure damselChrysiptera hemicyaneaYesA beautiful fish with neon blue on its body and a gold underside and caudal fin. Easy to care for and does best on a good diet. Fairly aggressive so choose tankmates carefully.
Black and gold damselNeoglyphidodon nigrorisYes
Blackmargined damselPomacentrus nigromarginatusYes
Blue damsel, Orangetail damselChrysiptera cyaneaYesAn orange tail indicates breeding success. The males have orange on their tails while the females do not. This fish is hardy and aggressive.
Blue and gold damselPomacentrus coelestisYes
Blue velvet damselParaglyphidodon oxyodonYes
Blueback damselPomacentrus simsiangYes
Blueline demoiselle, Yellowfin demoiselleChrysiptera caeruleolineataYes
Bluefin damselNeoglyphidodon melasYes
Caerulean damselPomacentrus caeruleusYes
Canary deep water damselChrysiptera galbaYes
Cloudy damselDascyllus carneusYes
Cross' damselNeoglyphidodon crossiYes
Domino damselDascyllus trimaculatusYesalso known as the three spot damsel, this fish is easy to care for, but is also very aggressive. The fish is black except for three distinct white spots that fade as the fish ages.
Fiji blue devil damselChrysiptera taupouYesThis striking blue damsel is one of the most popular beginner fish. Like other damsels, it is very hardy, and very aggressive when mature.
Four stripe damselDascyllus melanurusYesThe four stripe damsel is a perfect beginner marine fish as it is very hardy. This fish is highly territorial and is best suited for a semi-aggressive to aggressive tank.
Garibaldi damselHypsypops rubicundaYesThese are temperate fish and require cooler water. They are much larger than most other damsels.
Honey head damselDischistodus prosopotaeniaYes
Hawaiian DascyllusDascyllus albisellaYes
Jewel damselMicrospathodon chrysurusYesAmong the largest and most aggressive Damsels
King demoiselleChrysiptera rexYes
Lemon damselPomacentrus moluccensisYes
Longfin gregoryStegastes diencaeusCautionTurns brown, and becomes highly territorial as it ages
Marginated damselDascyllus marginatusYesThe marginated damsel is noted for blue fins as well as the yellow head and white body. This fish is hardy like most damsels and is also highly aggressive when mature.
Neon damselPomacentrus alleniYes
Ocellate damselPomacentrus vaiuliYes
Pavo damselPomacentrus pavoYes
Pink Smith damselPomacentrus smithiYes
Rolland's demoiselleChrysiptera rollandiYes
Sergeant major damselAbudefduf saxatilisYes
Speckled damselPomacentrus bankanensisYes
Springer's damselChrysiptera springeriYes
Stark's damselChrysiptera starckiYes
Talbots damselChrysiptera talbotiYesThis damselfish is somewhat a little more delicate than other. It does best in small groups in large tanks with good water quality and an SG of 1.026. Feed on a good diet for best results. Fairly peaceful.
Three stripe damselDascyllus aruanusYesHighly aggressive and territorial. Will harass fish many times its size. Best kept in an aggressive/semi-aggressive tank.
Three Spot damselStegastes planifronsYes
Tuxedo damselChrysiptera tricinctaYes
Two stripe damselDascyllus reticulatusYesthe two stripe damsel is a very hardy fish. This fish is perfect for the beginner marine aquarist, as it can tolerate substandard water quality. This fish is highly aggressive, and requires many hiding places.
Yellow damselAmblyglyphidodon aureusYes
Yellow threespot DascyllusDascyllus auripinnisYes
Yellowbelly damselPomacentrus auriventrisYes
Yellowtail DascyllusDascyllus flavicaudusYes
Yellowtail damselChrysiptera parasemaYesThe yellowtail damsel possess an all blue body with a striking yellow tail. This damsel is a good beginner fish as it is very hardy and can tolerate substandard water quality. This damsel is also less aggressive than some other damsel species.
Yellowtail demoiselleNeopomacentrus azysronYes

Dartfish

Most should be kept as pairs or small groups where all individuals are added at once.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Blue gudgeon dartfishPtereleotris hanaeYes
Fire fishNemateleotris magnificaYes
Purple fire fishNemateleotris decoraYes
Scissortail dartfishPtereleotris evidesYes
Zebra barred dartfishPtereleotris zebraYes

Dragonets

Dragonets are often mis-categorized as gobies or blennies by fish sellers. They are bottom-dwelling fish that constantly hunt tiny invertebrates for food. Most starve to death in a marine aquarium unless you provide a refugium or place for the invertebrates to reproduce safely without any fish being able to reach them.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
MandarinfishSynchiropus splendidusYesA brightly colored member of the dragonet family. Eats only copepods and will die in captivity without an adequate supply, which can only be had in very large, well established reef tanks
Starry dragonetSynchiropus stellatusYesAlso known as red scooter blenny though not a true blenny. Will often only eat live copepods and amphipods.
Ocellated dragonetSynchiropus ocellatusYesAlso known as scooter blenny though not a true blenny. Will often only eat live copepods and amphipods.
Spotted mandarinSynchiropus picturatusYesOften only eats live copepods and amphipods.

Eels

Most eels are easily kept in a large aquarium, although several species such as the blue ribbon eel should usually be avoided. With any moray eel care must be taken to secure the lid as one of the most common causes of death is escaping from the tank, and onto the floor.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Banded snake eelMyrichthys colubrinusNo
Banded eelEchidna polyzonaNo
Black edge moray eelGymnothorax saxicolaNo
Blue ribbon eel, black ribbon eelRhinomuraena quaesitaNo
Chainlink moray eelEchidna catenataNoCan be kept with fish too small to swallow
Dragon moray eelEnchelycore pardalisNoA fish eater that will eat anything it can fit in its mouth. When available is typically quite expensive
Golden dwarf eelGymnothorax melatremusYesRarely available, among the smallest of the moray eels
Golden moray eelGymnothorax miliarisMay eat fish and shrimpThese fish should only be kept in fish-only tanks as any small invertebrates will be looked on as food. Keep with fish large enough not to be eaten. Feed on a diet of whitefish, cockles, cod roe, haddock and frozen foods.
Green moray eelGymnothorax funebrisNoRequires a 180-gallon tank with tight fitting lid. Compatible with rays, sharks, and other large fish.
Jeweled moray eelMuraena lentiginosaNo
Kidako moray eelGymnothorax kidakoNo
Peppered morayGymnothorax pictaNo
Snowflake eelEchidna nebulosaMay eat shrimp if underfedA pebble-tooth moray that generally eats crustaceans and similar. Safer in reef aquariums than other species but be prepared to remove it in case it starts to eat desired invertebrates.
Spotted garden-eelHeteroconger hassiWith CautionRarely available, best avoided by inexperienced aquarists
Spotted Snake eelMyrichthys maculosusNoRequires at least six in of substrate
Tessalata eel, or laced morayGymnothorax favagineusNo
Yellowhead moray eelGymnothorax fimbriatusNo
Yellow mouth moray eelGymnothorax nudivomerNo
Whitemouth moray eelGymnothorax meleagrisWith Caution
Carpet eel-blennyCongrogadus subducensNoActually a Dottyback, but has the body shape of an eel.
Zebra morayGymnomuraena zebraNoOne of the easier moray eels to keep, is usually safe with most fish but will eat most invertebrates.

Filefish

Less often kept than their relatives the triggerfish and puffers, there are many filefish that make good aquarium residents, and a few that require specialized diets, making it hard to sustain them in an aquarium.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Clown filefishCantherhines dumeriliCaution
Colored filefishPervagor melanocephalusCaution
Fantail orange filefishPervagor spilosomaNo
Horseshoe filefishMeuschenia hippocrepisNo
Japanese filefishParamonacanthus japonicusNo
Mimic filefishParaluteres prionurusNo
Orangespotted filefishOxymonacanthus longirostrisNo
Tassle filefishChaetodermis penicilligerusCaution

Foxface

See [|Rabbitfish]

Flatfish

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeCare LevelDescriptionMax size
Peacock flounderBothus lunatusNoModerate
Flowery flounderBothus mancuswith cautionModerate
Banded soleSoleichthys heterorhinosWill eat shrimp and other invertebrates, will not harm coralModerate

Frogfish

A type of Anglerfish, Frogfish are ambush predators with huge mouths. They are capable of eating fish up to twice their length so care should be taken in choosing tank mates.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Longlure frogfishAntennarius multiocellatusNo20 cm
Giant anglerfishAntennarius commersonNo
Sargassum frogfishHistrio histrioNo
Striated frogfishAntennarius striatusNo
Wartskin frogfishAntennarius maculatusNoHas the ability to change color to match its surrounding.

Goatfish

While not as common a choice for aquariums as many other species, they are typically hardy and brightly colored
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Bicolor goatfishParupeneus barberinoidesWith Caution
Goldsaddle goatfishParupeneus cyclostomusWith Caution
Manybar goatfishParupeneus multifasciatusWith Caution
Yellow back goatfishParupeneus barberinusWith Caution

Gobies and clingfishes

Typically are hardy and do not harm invertebrates which makes them a good choice of fish for a reef tank.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Black barred convict gobyPriolepis nocturnaYes
Black clown gobyGobiodon acicularisMostly; can destroy unhealthy Acropora by laying its eggs in the coral's tissueSimilar to Yellow clown goby, but black
Bluespotted watchman gobyCryptocentrus pavoninoidesYes
Catalina gobyLythrypnus dalliYesA cold water species
Cave transparent gobyCoryphopterus glaucofraenumYes
Citron clown gobyGobiodon citrinusMostly; can destroy unhealthy Acropora by laying its eggs in the coral's tissue
Court jester gobyAmblygobius rainfordi
Diagonal bar prawn gobyAmblyeleotris diagonalisYes
Diamond watchman gobyValenciennea puellarisYesBurrow and sift sand constantly; very good algae eaters
Dracula gobyStonogobiops draculaYes
Gold neon eviota gobyEviota pellucidaYes
Green banded gobyElacatinus multifasciatusYesSmall burrowing goby with green vertical stripes
Green clown gobyGobiodon atrangulatusYes
Hector's gobyAmblygobius hectoriYes
Hi fin red banded gobyStonogobiops nematodesYes
Neon gobyElacatinus oceanopsYesA Caribbean cleaner species that sometimes eats larger parasites from other fish.
Orange marked gobyAmblygobius decussatusYes
Orange spotted gobyAmblyeleotris guttataYes
Orange stripe prawn gobyAmblyeleotris randalliYes
Pinkspotted shrimp gobyGobius melanopusMay eat ornamental shrimpWhite fish with pink bands around the body and pink spots on face and fins. One of the most handsome members of the group.
Pinkbar gobyCryptocentrus auroraYes
Red head gobyElacatinus puncticulatusYesA small goby that can clean like the neon goby but is easily frightened. Often said to 'disappear' in a larger tank, as it never swims out into view.
Red striped gobyTrimma canaYes
Sleeper banded gobyAmblygobius phalaenaYes
Sleeper blue dot gobyValenciennea sexguttataYes
Sleeper gold head gobyValenciennea strigataYes
Sleeper railway glider gobyValenciennea helsdingeniiYes
Sleeper striped gobyValenciennea longipinnisYes
Steinitz gobyAmblyeleotris steinitziYes
Tangaroa gobyCtenogobiops tangaroaiYes
Tiger watchman gobyValenciennea wardiiYes
Two spot gobySignigobius biocellatusYes
Violet gobyGobioides broussonnetiiNoAlso a freshwater and brackish water fish and often sold as Dragon Fish or Dragon Goby21"
Wheeler's watchman gobyAmblyeleotris wheeleriYes
Yellow watchman gobyCryptocentrus cinctusYesA species of "watchman" or "shrimp" goby that can form a symbiotic relationship with pistol shrimp
Yasha gobyStonogobiops yashaYesA species of "watchman" or "shrimp" goby that will form a symbiotic relationship with the red and white banded pistol shrimp, Alpheus randalli.
Yellow clown gobyGobiodon okinawaeYesSmall yellow fish that likes branching corals
Yellow priolepis gobyPriolepis aureoviridisYes
Yellow stripe clingfishDiademichthys lineatus''Yes

Grunts

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Crescent banded gruntTerapon jarbuaNo
Dogfish prientalisPlectorhinchus lineatusNo
Oriental sweetlipsPlectorhinchus orientalisNo
Painted sweetlipsPlectorhinchus picusNo
PorkfishAnisotremus virginicusNo
Spotted sweetlipsPlectorhinchus chaetodonoidesNo
Striped sweetlipsPlectorhinchus diagrammusNo
Twostriped sweetlipsPlectorhinchus albovittatusNo

Hamlet

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Barred hamletHypoplectrus puellaNo
Black hamletHypoplectrus nigricansNo
Blue hamletHypoplectrus gemmaNot with shrimp
Butter hamletHypoplectrus unicolorNot with shrimp
Golden hamletHypoplectrus gummiguttaNot with shrimp
Indigo hamletHypoplectrus indigo
Shy hamletHypoplectrus guttavariusNot with shrimp

Hawkfish

Attractive and relatively small, Hawkfish make excellent additions to fish only or FOWLR aquariums. With extreme caution taken, they could be kept in reef aquariums, but because of their propensity to eat small ornamental shrimps and other mobile invertebrates they are not considered reef safe. Lacking a swim bladder, Hawkfish can often be found resting in crevices of rocks or among the branches of corals or gorgonians. Hawkfish are easy to care for and not picky at all about water quality. A varied diet, including spirulina and small meaty foods like Mysis is recommended.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Arc eye hawkfishParacirrhites arcatusCaution; will eat shrimpBrown to yellow body with reddish dorsal fin, distinctive white caudal fin, and small semicircular marking behind eye.
Blood red hawkfishCirrhitichthys fasciatusCaution; will eat shrimp
Coral hawkfishCirrhitichthys oxycephalusCaution; may eat small shrimp
Falco's hawkfishCirrhitichthys falcoCaution; may eat small shrimp
Flame hawkfishNeocirrhitus armatusCaution; may eat small shrimpStriking red body with black on fin tips and yellow lips.
Freckled hawkfishParacirrhites forsteriCaution; will eat shrimp
Golden hawkfishParacirrhites xanthusCaution; will eat shrimp
Longnose hawkfishOxycirrhites typusCaution; may eat small shrimpWhite with red lattice-like markings resembling a grid. Nose is elongated and tissue between the spines of the dorsal fin is missing.
Lyretail hawkfishCirrhitichthys polyactisCaution; may eat small shrimp
Redspotted hawkfishAmblycirrhitus pinosCaution; may eat small shrimp
Spotted hawkfishCirrhitichthys aprinusCaution; may eat small shrimpBright red with distinctive diamond shaped markings down back, becoming darker towards the topside of body.
Whitespot hawkfishParacirrhites hemistictusCaution; will eat shrimp
Yellow hawkfishCirrhitichthys aureusCaution; may eat small shrimp

Hogfish

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Coral hogfishBodianus mesothoraxNo
Cuban hogfishBodianus pulchellusCaution
Hawaiian hogfishBodianus bilunulatusCaution
Red diana hogfishBodianus dianaNo
Spanish hogfishBodianus rufusNo
Twin spot hogfishBodianus bimaculatusNo

Idols

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Moorish idolZanclus cornutusWith Caution

Jacks

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Pilot fishNaucrates ductor?Because they live in the open ocean, they are rare in the aquarium trade. They host sharks, rays, and sea turtles and eat food scraps, ectoparasites, and possibly the feces of their host. Juvenile Golden trevally are occasionally sold as Pilot fish. In the picture, the Pilot fish are hosting an Oceanic whitetip shark.
Golden trevallyGnathanodon speciosusNo
Indian threadfinAlectis indicusNo
Threadfin lookdownSelene vomerNo

Jawfish

Jawfish are burrowers and require a sandy substrate of sufficient depth.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Black cap jawfishOpistognathus lonchurusAlmost alwaysRequires a 30 gallon tank and substrate. Tank should remain tightly lidded. May eat small shrimp.
Blue dot jawfishOpistognathus rosenblattiYes
Dusky jawfishOpistognathus whitehurstiiYesRequires a 30 gallon tank and sand substrate. Tank should remain tightly lidded.
Yellowhead jawfishOpistognathus aurifronsYesRequires a 30 gallon tank and soft substrate. Tank should remain tightly lidded.

Lionfish

"Lionfish" specifically refer to the genus Pterois within the family Scorpaenidae. They have venomous spines and should be treated with caution. Other species within Scorpaenidae but outside Pterois may also have "lionfish" in their common names. Feeder goldfish are not the proper nutrition for a lion fish.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Antenneta lionfishPterois antennataCaution
Blackfoot lionfishParapterois heteruraCaution
Devil lionfishPterois mombasaeCaution
Fu Man Chu lionfishDendrochirus biocellatusCaution
Fuzzy dwarf lionfishDendrochirus brachypterusCautionCarnivore; Males 6< stripes on pectoral fin femals >6
Green lionfishDendrochirus barberiCaution
Radiata lionfishPterois radiata
Russell's lionfishPterois russelii
Volitan lionfishPterois volitansCautionSemi-aggressive; carnivore
Zebra lionfishDendrochirus zebraCaution

Parrotfish

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Bicolor parrotfishCetoscarus bicolorYes
Princess parrotfishScarus taeniopterusYes

Pipefish

are relatives of seahorses and require a similar level of care. They should only be bought by experienced aquarium owners. Captive bred specimens are sometimes available, and are significantly more likely to survive.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Banded pipefishDoryrhamphus dactyliophorusYes
Dragonface pipefishCorythoichthys haematopterusYesalign="center"
Janss' pipefishDoryrhamphus janssiYes
Yellow multibanded pipefishDoryrhamphus pessuliferusYes

Pseudochromis

Usually only a single specimen can be kept in an aquarium. Sometimes multiple specimens can be kept in larger aquariums, but usually this requires them to be added at the same time or they will be too territorial.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Allen's dottybackManonichthys alleniMay eat shrimps
Australian multicolor pseudochromisOgilbyina novaehollandiaeMay eat shrimps
Bicolor pseudochromisPseudochromis paccagnellaeMay eat shrimpsResembles royal gramma in coloration. The bicolor pseudochromis is semi-aggressive and will defend its territory against fish several times its size. This fish is fairly hardy, and is a good beginner fish.
Blue flavivertex pseudochromisPseudochromis flavivertexMay eat shrimpsCaptive bred specimens are sometimes available
Bluelined dottybackPseudochromis cyanotaeniaMay eat shrimps
Brown dottyback or yellow pseudochromisPseudochromis aureusMay eat shrimps
Cherry dottybackPholidochromis cerasinaMay eat shrimps
Dilectus dottybackPseudochromis dilectusMay eat shrimps
Dusky dottybackPseudochromis fuscusMay eat shrimps
Elongate dottybackPseudochromis elongatusMay eat shrimps
Firetail dottybackPseudochromis flammicaudaMay eat shrimps
Fridmani pseudochromis or orchid dottybackPseudochromis fridmaniMay eat shrimpsCommunity fish does well in most aquariums. is not nearly as aggressive as other dottybacks.
Longfin dottybackManonichthys polynemusMay eat shrimps
Lyretail dottybackPseudochromis steeneiMay eat shrimps
Neon pseudochromis, Arabian dottyback or neon dottybackPseudochromis aldabraensisMay eat shrimpsCaptive bred specimens are sometimes available
Oblique-lined dottybackCypho purpurascensMay eat shrimps
Orangetail dottybackPseudochromis coccinicaudaMay eat shrimps
Purple stripe pseudochromis or diadema bassletPseudochromis diademaMay eat shrimps
Red dottybackLabracinus cyclophthalmusWith CautionLarge and aggressive for a dottyback
Sailfin pseudochromisPseudochromis veliferusMay eat shrimps
Splendid pseudochromisPseudochromis splendensMay eat shrimps
Springeri pseudochromisPseudochromis springeriMay eat shrimpsCaptive bred species are sometimes available
Striped dottybackPseudochromis sankeyiMay eat shrimpsCaptive bred specimens are sometimes available
Strawberry pseudochromis or purple pseudochromisPseudochromis porphyreusMay eat shrimps
Twolined dottybackPseudochromis bitaeniatusMay eat shrimps

Rabbitfish

Less commonly kept than some other species, many still make hardy and colorful aquarium residents.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Bicolor FoxfaceSiganus uspiWith Caution
Blue-Lined RabbitfishSiganus doliatusWith Caution
FoxfaceSiganus vulpinus
Magnificent foxfaceSiganus magnificus
One Spot FoxfaceSiganus unimaculatusWith Caution
Yellow Blotch RabbitfishSiganus guttatusWith Caution

Rays

Most rays have a venomous spine near the base of the tail. Care must be taken to avoid this animal when performing tank maintenance and during capture.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Round stingrayUrobatis halleriNoRequires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium. Recently purchased individuals can be startled easily by quick movements and loud noises, but they will become quite tame after spending a while in captivity. Unhealthy individuals will become a light grey color and their markings will fade. Occasionally called the Cortez ray and thus misidentified as Urobatis maculatus.
Cortez round stingrayUrobatis maculatusNoRequires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium and is hardy and attains a small size although rarely available. May be misidentified with Urobatis halleri as that species is occasionally called the Cortez ray.
Bullseye round stingrayUrobatis concentricusNoRequires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium. An occasionally available hardy species.
Leopard round stingrayUrobatis pardalisNoProbably is a hardy species.
Yellow stingrayUrobatis jamaicensisNoRequires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium and readily acclimates to suitable captive environments. It is also readily available in the aquarium trade and will eat any small fish that it can catch.
Chilean round rayUrotrygon chilensisNoRequires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium. It is small and well suited for captivity.
Bluespotted ribbontail rayTaeniura lymmaNoRequires a minimum 260 gallon aquarium. It is notorious for doing terribly in aquarium confines. Many individuals never eat and others may die or stop feeding for no apparent reason. Force-feeding shows promise with this species. Not to confused with the Bluespotted stingray Neotrygon kuhlii.
Bluespotted stingrayNeotrygon kuhliiNoRequires a minimum 260 gallon aquarium and is quite hardy, however it should not be disturbed as it acclimates to aquarium life. Provide it with a 5cm deep fine sand bed. Do not confuse this species with the much less hardy Bluespotted ribbontail ray Taeniura lymma.
Southern stingrayHypanus americanusNoRequires a minimum 4,200 gallon aquarium as this ray grows to a very large size. It is quite hardy, yet it will devour any fish or invertebrate it can capture.
Atlantic stingrayHypanus sabinusNoRequires a minimum 135 gallon aquarium. Is relatively small yet may or may not easily adapt to life in an aquarium. It is best kept in saltwater or brackish systems although they can survive in freshwater.
Bluntnose StingrayHypanus sayNoRequires a minimum 560 gallon aquarium. Well suited to captive life.
Reticulated whiptail rayHimantura uarnakNoDue to its massive proportions, this occasionally available ray should be avoided.
Red stingrayHemitrygon akajeiNoRequires a water temperature of in between and.
Cowtail stingrayPastinachus sephenNoLike other Whiptail stingrays, Pastinachus sephen should be provided with an aquarium containing a sand bed and little aquascaping.
Common stingareeTrygonoptera testaceaNoSeems to be well suited to captive life.
Striped stingareeTrygonoptera ovalisNo?Seems to be well suited to captive life although it should be kept at cool temperatures.
Spotted stingareeUrolophus gigasNoSeems to be well suited to captive life.
Shovelnose guitarfishPseudobatos productusNoRequires a minimum 825 gallon aquarium with a 7cm deep sand bed and no rockwork. May live for 8 to 10 years in an aquarium.
Atlantic guitarfishPseudobatos lentiginosusNoRequires a minimum 200 gallon aquarium preferably with no aquascaping. Uncommon in the aquarium trade.
Speckled guitarfishPseudobatos glaucostigmusNoLike other guitarfish, it should be kept in an aquarium with a sand bed, much open swimming area, and little rockwork.
Eastern shovelnose rayAptychotrema rostrataNoLike other guitarfish, it should be kept in an aquarium with a sand bed, much open swimming area, and little rockwork.
Giant shovelnose rayGlaucostegus typusNoLike other guitarfish, it should be kept in an aquarium with a sand bed, much open swimming area, and little rockwork.
Bowmouth guitarfishRhina ancylostomaNoLike other guitarfish, it should be kept in an aquarium with a sand bed, much open swimming area, and little rockwork. Also called the Shark ray and the Mud skate.
Eastern fiddler rayTrygonorrhina fasciataNoRequires a minimum 560 gallon aquarium. It is durable but it may have trouble feeding with more agile bony fish tankmates..
Thornback rayPlatyrhinoidis triseriataNoRequires a minimum 360 gallon aquarium without any aquascaping. It may consume benthic fishes and its thorns are tangled in nets easily.
Shortnose guitarfishZapteryx brevirostrisNoRequires a minimum 200 gallon aquarium with little aquascaping and preferably a sand bed. Given such an environment, it will readily adapt to captive life. It can create a cave by lifting the center of its body off the ground to lure in potential prey.
Banded guitarfishZapteryx exasperataNoRequires a minimum 300 gallon aquarium with a sand bed, much open swimming area, and little rockwork, and a ledge under which to hide under. Under such conditions, it is somewhat hardy. It is rarely encountered in the aquarium trade.
Southern banded guitarfishZapteryx xysterNoIs rarely available. Like other guitarfish, it should be kept in an aquarium with a sand bed, much open swimming area, and little rockwork.
Leopard torpedo rayTorpedo pantheraNoRequires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium with a thick sand bed and little to no decoration. Like other species in the genus Torpedo, Large individuals should be carefully handled as they are capable of shocking their owners. This ray should be kept alone.
Marbled electric rayTorpedo marmorataNoIt is relatively hardy although it usually will only target moving food. Like other species in the genus Torpedo, Large individuals should be carefully handled as they are capable of shocking their owners. It should also be kept in an aquarium with a thick sand bed and little to no decoration. Not to be confused with the Marbled electric ray.
Marbled electric rayTorpedo sinuspersiciNoOccasionally available to European hobbyists. It is relatively hardy although it usually will only target moving food. Like other species in the genus Torpedo, Large individuals should be carefully handled as they are capable of shocking their owners. It should also be kept in an aquarium with a thick sand bed and little to no decoration. Not to be confused with the Marbled electric ray.
Bullseye electric rayDiplobatis ommataNoRequires a minimum 40 gallon aquarium and is hard to feed. Like the Lesser electric ray, it can be sustained if fed live food including small grass shrimp and annelid worms and should also be provided with a sand bed 6cm deep. Also like the Lesser electric ray, it may shock other tankmates, yet it can be kept with others of its own kind. It is rarely encountered in the aquarium trade.
Lesser electric rayNarcine bancroftiiNoRequires a minimum 70 gallon aquarium. Like the Bullseye electric ray, it can be kept successfully if fed live food such as annelid worms and provided with a layer of sand 6cm deep. This ray may shock tankmates although they can be kept with other Lesser electric rays.
Brown numbfishNarcine brunneaNoLike other rays in the genus Narcine, it is difficult to feed and should not be kept with rough surfaced rocks. It can be kept with others of its own kind.
Unknown electric rayNarcine barinnusNoLike other rays in the genus Narcine, it is difficult to feed and should not be kept with rough surfaced rocks. It can be kept with others of its own kind.?
Elat electric rayHeteronarce bentuviaiNo?Also known as the Eilat Sleeper Ray.
Spiny butterfly rayGymnura altavelaNoRequires a minimum 8,750 gallon aquarium. Like most butterfly rays, it usually does not do well in aquarium confines as it is often hard to feed. Also like most butterfly rays, it is an active ray that requires much swimming space like some active sharks. It is rarely available.
Smooth butterfly rayGymnura micruraNoLike most butterfly rays, it usually does not do well in aquarium confines as it is often hard to feed. Also like most butterfly rays, it is an active ray that requires much swimming space like some active sharks. It is rarely available.
California butterfly rayGymnura marmorataNoLike most butterfly rays, it usually does not do well in aquarium confines as it is often hard to feed. Also like most butterfly rays, it is an active ray that requires much swimming space like some active sharks.
Bat rayMyliobatis californicaNoRequires a minimum 4,850 gallon aquarium and if given the space, does quite successfully. Unfortunately, they host large amounts of parasites, requiring quarantine and treatments. May jump out of an open aquarium.
Bullnose eagle rayMyliobatis freminvilleiNoRequires a large system as it is quite large and active.
Southern eagle rayMyliobatis goodeiNoRequires a large system as it is quite large and active.
Spotted eagle rayAetobatus narinariNoRequires a covered, large system as it is quite large, active, and is capable of leaping out of the water. It can be difficult to feed and is very sensitive to trichlorfon.
Cownose rayRhinoptera bonasusNoRequires a large system in which to live in although it does not need to be deep. Is a schooling fish so keeping several of these rays is recommended. It is also quite active.

Scorpionfish

Because they are relatively inactive fishes, most species can be kept in smaller aquariums than other equally large fish, and 30 gallon tanks are not unusual. Because they are capable of eating fish that are surprisingly large, but will often be picked at by fish that eat invertebrates a species tank is often set up for them. Some fish will never accept anything but live food, typically these specimens are fed on gut packed guppies, mollies, or ghost shrimp. Similarly to the lionfish, care should be taken when handling these fish as they are also venomous.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Ambon scorpionfishPteroidichthys amboinensisNot with shrimp or small fish
Decoy scorpionfishIracundus signiferNot with shrimp or small fish
Eschmeyer's scorpionfishRhinopias eschmeyeriNot with shrimp or small fish
Flasher scorpionfishScorpaenopsis macrochirNot with shrimp or small fish
Lacey scorpionfishRhinopias aphanesNot with shrimp or small fish
Leaf scorpionfishTaenianotus triacanthusWith Caution
Mozambique scorpionfishParascorpaena mossambicaNot with shrimp or small fish
Papuan scorpionfishScorpaenopsis papuensisNot with shrimp or small fish
Poss's scorpionfishScorpaenopsis possiNot with shrimp or small fish
Rogue scorpionAmblyapistus taenionotusWith Caution
Sea goblinInimicus didactylusNot with shrimp or small fish
Stone fishSynanceja verrucosaNoHighly venomous! Have caused human deaths
Weedy scorpionfishRhinopias frondosaNot with shrimp or small fish
Yellowspotted scorpionfishSebastapistes cyanostigmaNot with shrimp or small fish

Seahorses

It takes a special aquarist to maintain these delicate beauties. A potential keeper must be dedicated and willing to throw artistic creativity to the winds- as what seahorses need is not always beautiful. They require taller tanks, live/frozen food, and many hitching posts, as well as very peaceful tankmates. In fact, beginners would be well-advised not to mix seahorses with any other species until they have more experience.
Seahorses found in stores are generally Captive Bred, but occasionally one might find a wild caught specimen. WC Seahorses should only be purchased by seahorse experts who are going to breed them, as they tend to be finicky and most are endangered in the wild.
One of the advantages of Seahorses is that many species stay small and can be kept in smaller tanks, making them ideal for aquarists who are pressed for space or money.
Seahorses are among the few popular marine aquarium species that can be temperate. Species vary in their temperature requirement, so here an extra category has been added.
TR=Tropical ST=Sub-Tropical TM=Temperate
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeTemp.DescriptionMax size
Brazilian seahorseHippocampus reidiCautionSTUsually bright yellow, with a particularly long snout.
Spotted seahorseHippocampus kudaCautionTRGenerally yellow, but can also range from tan to dark black.
Great seahorseHippocampus kelloggiCautionSTLight tan, with some darker specimens.
Pot-bellied seahorseHippocampus abdominalisCautionTMLight-colored with dark spots and a large abdomen.
Pygmy seahorseHippocampus bargibantiCautionTRWhite with pink knobby protrusions.
Short-snouted seahorseHippocampus brevicepsCautionTMGrayish to tan with short snout and a spiny head.
Tiger tail seahorseHippocampus comesCautionTRVarying colors with dark striped tail.
Lined SeahorseHippocampus erectusCautionSTDark colored with lighter belly and white ridges.
White's SeahorseHippocampus whiteiCautionTMFuller bodied with a comparatively larger head.
Dwarf SeahorseHippocampus zosteraeCautionSTSimilar to H. reidi but much smaller.
Thorny SeahorseHippocampus histrixCautionTRVarying colors with distinctive spines all over body.

Squirrelfish

Typically are hardy fish that can be kept with a wide variety of tankmates.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Big eye soldierfishMyripristis vittataWith Caution
Blackbar soldierfishMyripristis jacobusWith Caution
Glass eye squirrelfishHeteropriacanthus cruentatusWith Caution
Popeye catalufa soldierfishPristigenys serrulaWith Caution
Scarlet squirrelfishSargocentron tiereWith Caution
Striped squirrelfishSargocentron xantherythrumWith Caution

Sharks

Many sharks will outgrow most home aquariums and/or adapt poorly to captivity. However, numerous coastal and coral reef sharks do well in good aquarium surroundings although you should have experience in keeping other saltwater fish before trying to keep sharks as they are more difficult to care for. In a shark aquarium setup, there should be much surface area, fine substrate, little décor and rockwork for swimming space, excellent filtration, protected heaters, filter intakes, etc. by surrounding them in polyurethane foam barriers, and a secure canopy as well as, strong, steady, linear water flow moving in a gyre circling the aquarium, dissolved oxygen levels of 7-8ppm, low light levels, and no stray electrical currents/amounts of metal in the aquarium water. Many sharks feed on invertebrates to a great degree along with fish, and although they don't eat coral, they can knock them over and rest on them. There are also many fish and invertebrates that can harm/irritate sharks such as Scorpionfish, Butterflyfish, Angelfish, Filefish, Triggerfish, Pufferfish, Suckerfish, Porcupinefish, certain other sharks, large crabs, Hermit crabs, sea anemones, and stinging corals. Also, sharks need iodine which can be provided through regular water changes or supplements for sharks, and feeding frequency is species-specific. Copper treatments should not be administered to most shark species.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Whitespotted bamboo sharkChiloscyllium plagiosumNoRequires a minimum 160 gallon aquarium. Does well in home aquaria and will mate/reproduce in larger aquariums. Sometimes called the Marbled Bamboo Cat Shark.
Brownbanded bamboo sharkChiloscyllium punctatumNoRequires a minimum 170 gallon aquarium. One of the most common sharks in the North American aquarium trade and does well in home aquaria as it will easily acclimate to captivity and will mate/reproduce in aquariums. Juveniles may take a while to begin feeding if newly acquired. Sometimes called the Banded catshark.
Epaulette sharkHemiscyllium ocellatumNoRequires a minimum 260 gallon aquarium. One of the best sharks for home aquaria as it will easily acclimate to captivity and will mate/reproduce in aquariums. Adult males might behave aggressively to other male sharks including male Epualette sharks, and harass females.
Horn sharkHeterodontus francisciNoRequires a minimum 240 gallon aquarium. A sub-tropical species of shark. The most common bullhead shark in the North American aquarium trade.
Port Jackson sharkHeterodontus portusjacksoniNoRequires a minimum 750 gallon aquarium. A sub-tropical species of shark which may be a host to numerous parasites. It will also eat small fish at night.
Coral catsharkAtelomycterus marmoratusNoRequires a minimum 110 gallon aquarium. Active during the night and will try to eat fish housed with them. Two color variants are commonly found in fish stores in the US. Also called the Marbled catshark which is a different species of shark.
Marbled catsharkAtelomycterus macleayiNoRequires a minimum 70 gallon aquarium. Uncommon in the aquarium trade although it is an ideal aquarium species of shark. Commonly confused with the Coral catshark. Unlike the Coral catshark which is black with white spots and bars, the Marbled catshark is pale with black spots and seven grey saddles and is smaller and more docile.
Nurse sharkGinglymostoma cirratumNoRequires a minimum 4,800 gallon aquarium. Although durable, the Nurse shark will grow too large for most home aquariums. It is an aggressive feeder which will make it harder for you to feed more reclusive sharks and it can knock over/rearrange aquarium decorations in a small aquarium.
Zebra sharkStegostoma fasciatumNoRequires a minimum 6,200 gallon aquarium. The Zebra shark will grow too large for most home aquariums. Sometimes the juveniles of this shark are sold and require a minimum 100 gallon aquarium. A juvenile Zebra shark is shown in the picture while adults are much larger and have pale coloration with black spots. Also called the Leopard shark which is a different species of shark.
Leopard sharkTriakis semifasciataNoRequires a minimum 4,500 gallon aquarium. A sub-tropical species of shark and may live a long time in captivity.
Banded houndsharkTriakis scylliumWith CautionRequires a minimum 750 gallon aquarium. Markings on the shark fade with age but not completely.
Gray smooth-houndMustelus californicusNoRequires a minimum 1,700 gallon aquarium. A sub-tropical and active species of shark that requires a tank with plenty of room to swim which will do better in circular and oval shaped tanks rather than rectangular ones. It will jump out of uncovered aquariums.
Brown smooth-houndMustelus henleiNoRequires a minimum 1,200 gallon aquarium. A sub-tropical and active species of shark that requires a tank with plenty of room to swim. This shark will do better in circular and oval shaped tanks where they can have an uninterrupted swimming pattern rather than rectangular tanks. It will jump out of uncovered aquariums and it is more likely to suffer from shipping stress than its less active relatives.
Tasselled wobbegongEucrossorhinus dasypogonNoRequires a minimum 360 gallon aquarium. Will eat any fish or crustacean housed with it that can be swallowed entirely. Slow-growing when not overfed.
Japanese wobbegongOrectolobus japonicusNoRequires a minimum 170 gallon aquarium. Rare in the North American aquarium trade.
Ornate wobbegongOrectolobus ornatusNoRequires a minimum 3,150 gallon aquarium. The Ornate wobbegong will grow too large for most home aquariums and will eat other elasmobranchs. It is the most common wobbegong in the North American aquarium trade.
Spotted wobbegongOrectolobus maculatusNoRequires a minimum 3,150 gallon aquarium. Although durable, the Spotted wobbegong will grow too large for most home aquariums and will eat other elasmobranchs.
Northern wobbegongOrectolobus wardiNoRequires a minimum 110 gallon aquarium. The Northern wobbegong has a passive personality and a small maximum size, and may not eat initially when it has been added to an aquarium and is rarely collected. An aquarist can handle this shark without a lot fear of getting bitten.
Blacktip reef sharkCarcharhinus melanopterusNoRequires a minimum 5,750 gallon aquarium. Easily startled by quick movements and the sudden entry an aquarist in their aquarium which may cause them to jump out of an open tank or hit the walls of their aquarium, leading to death. Must keep swimming in order to breath thus requiring a very large aquarium.
Whitetip reef sharkTriaenodon obesusNoRequires a minimum 8,400 gallon aquarium. Can destroy aquarium decorations when moving through the décor to find food. Often has goiter.
Bonnethead sharkSphyrna tiburoNoRequires a minimum 2,600 gallon aquarium. Occasionally available and requires expert care. When newly added to an aquarium, the Bonnethead shark will often swim at the surface of the water and lift the front of its head above the surface. When it has settled in, the shark will stop this activity or begin to do it less often. Must keep moving in order to breath.
Shark egg caseSelachimorpha sp. Egg case N/AMay take 70-90+ days to hatch. Chiloscyllium shark egg cases are hardy and available. Heterodontus, Scyliorhinidae, and Stegostoma shark egg cases are also available.Mixed

Snappers

Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Black snapper, black and white snapperMacolor nigerNo
Emperor snapperLutjanus sebaeNo
Threadfin snapperSymphorichthys spilurusNo
Yellowback fusilierCaesio xanthonotaNo
Yellow-Banded Snapper, Hussar Emperor SnapperLutjanus adetiiNo

Tangs

s generally feed on algae, though there are a few carnivorous species. Most tangs will not tolerate other fish the same color and/or shape as them. They have a spine on their tails that can cut open other fish and unprotected hands. All tangs should be given plenty of swimming room; try to have at least a 4' tank. Contrary to popular belief they will tolerate smaller tanks just fine but tend to live better in larger tanks, over 5'.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Achilles tangAcanthurus achillesYesPassive aggressive. This fish is native to the waters of Hawaii and the South Pacific and therefore requires substantial turbulent flow and circulation to be kept in an aquarium. This fish should only be kept in a six-foot or large aquarium as it requires a large amount of swim room. Very prone to Cryptocaryon irritans
Atlantic blue tangAcanthurus coeruleusYesLess aggressive than Achilles or Powder Blue16 in
Blue eyed tangCtenochaetus binotatusYes
Blue lined surgeonfishAcanthurus nigrorisYes
Bristletooth tangCtenochaetus striatusYes
Chevron tangCtenochaetus hawaiiensisYesBright orange when young and dark olive green when transitioned fully to juvenile.
Clown tangAcanthurus lineatusYesOne of the most aggressive tangs15 inches
Convict tangAcanthurus triostegusYes
Desjardini tangZebrasoma desjardiniiYes
DoctorfishAcanthurus chirurgusYes
Dussumieri tangAcanthurus dussumieriYes
Eibli mimic tangAcanthurus tristisYes
Gold rim tangAcanthurus nigricansYes
Regal / Hippo tangParacanthurus hepatusYesVery prone to Cryptocaryon irritans. More tolerant of other tangs than most other species.
Kole tangCtenochaetus strigosusYes
Lavender tangAcanthurus nigrofuscusYes
Lopezi tangNaso lopeziYes
Mimic tang, Chocolate tangAcanthurus pyroferusYes
Naso tang, blonde naso tangNaso lituratusYes
Orange shoulder tangAcanthurus olivaceusYes
Powder blue tangAcanthurus leucosternonYesVery prone to Cryptocaryon irritans.
Powder brown tangAcanthurus japonicusYes
Purple tangZebrasoma xanthurumYes
Sailfin tangZebrasoma veliferumYes
Scopas tangZebrasoma scopasYesSimilar to the yellow tang in shape and feeding.
Sohal tangAcanthurus sohalYesOne of the larger more aggressive tangs
Tennent tangAcanthurus tennentiYes
Thompson's surgeonfishAcanthurus thompsoniYes
Tomini tangCtenocheatus tominiensisYesThis fish requires ample swimming room and is difficult to feed.
Unicorn tangNaso unicornisYes
Vlamingi tangNaso vlamingiiYes
White freckled surgeonAcanthurus maculicepsYes
Yellow tangZebrasoma flavescensYes
Yellowfin surgeonAcanthurus xanthopterusYes

Tilefish

Though often categorized as gobies, tilefish are a separate species.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Blue-headed tilefishHoplolatilus starcki
Purple tilefishHoplolatilus purpureus
Yellow tilefishHoplolatilus luteus
Redlined tilefishHoplolatilus marcosi

Triggerfish

While they are generally considered monsters that will chomp invertebrates, a few species can make great reef fish. Other more aggressive species such as the undulated trigger, and clown trigger will sometimes be so aggressive that it is necessary to keep as the sole inhabitant of the aquarium. All will require large tanks, with good filtration.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Assasi triggerRhinecanthus assasiNo
Blue jaw trigger / blue throat triggerXanthichthys auromarginatusWidely regarded as the only reef safe trigger.
Blue line triggerPseudobalistes fuscusNo
Bursa triggerRhinecanthus verrucosusNo
Clown triggerBalistoides conspicillumNo
Crosshatch triggerXanthichthys mentoNoA shy reserved fish when first added to the aquarium, comes into its own when it associates itself with the aquarist. Infrequently available
Goldenback triggerXanthichthys caeruleolineatusNoRarely available
Golden heart triggerBalistes punctatusNo
Halfmoon triggerSufflamen chrysopterumNo
Hawaiian black triggerMelichthys nigerNo
Lei triggerSufflamen bursaNo
Indian black triggerMelichthys indicusNo
Niger triggerOdonus nigerNoAmong the more peaceful of triggers, can usually be kept in a community tank
Picasso triggerRhinecanthus aculeatusNo
Pinktail triggerMelichthys viduaNo
Queen triggerBalistes vetulaNoA large fish that should only be kept in very large aquariums.
Rectangular triggerRhinecanthus rectangulusNo
Sargassum triggerXanthichthys ringensNoA shy reserved fish when first added to the aquarium, comes into its own when it associates itself with the aquarist. Infrequently available
Starry triggerAbalistes stellatusNo
Titan triggerBalistoides viridescensNoCan only be housed in the largest of marine aquariums
Undulated triggerBalistapus undulatusNoProbably the most aggressive fish kept in marine aquariums. Older specimens should be housed alone.
Whitetail triggerSufflamen albicaudatumWith Caution

Wrasse

A diverse group of fish with an equally wide range of characteristics. Some wrasse species are aggressive towards small fish and invertebrates, others are reef safe. Some are quite hardy, some typically die within weeks.
Common nameImageTaxonomyReef safeDescriptionMax size
Banana wrasseThalassoma lutescensNo
Bicolor cleaner wrasseLabroides bicolorYes
Bird wrasseGomphosus variusNo
Bluehead wrasseThalassoma bifasciatumWith Caution
Bluestreak cleaner wrasseLabroides dimidiatusYes
Carpenter's flasher wrasseParacheilinus carpenteriYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Cheeklined maori wrasseCheilinus diagrammusNo
Christmas wrasseThalassoma trilobatumNo
Cortez rainbow wrasseThalassoma lucasanumNo
Dragon wrasseNovaculichthys taeniourusNo
Eight line wrassePseudocheilinus octotaeniaYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Exquisite fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus exquisitusYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Fine-spotted fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus punctatusYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Flame wrasseCirrhilabrus jordaniYes
Formosa wrasseCoris formosaNo
Four line wrassePseudocheilinus tetrataeniaYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Goldbar wrasseThalassoma hebraicumWith Caution
Greenback fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus scottorumYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Harlequin tuskChoerodon fasciatusGenerally, yes, but may eat shrimp
Hawaiian cleaner wrasseLabroides phthirophagusYes
Hoeven's wrasseHalichoeres melanurusWith Caution
Jansen saddle wrasseThalassoma janseniiNo
Labout's fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus labouteiYes
Leopard wrasseMacropharyngodon meleagrisYes
Lineatus fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus lineatusYes
Longfin fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus rubriventralisYes
Lyretail wrasse/Moon wrasseThalassoma lunareNo
Marble wrasseHalichoeres hortulanusNo
McCosker's flasher wrasseParacheilinus mccoskeriYes
Multicolor lubbock's wrasseCirrhilabrus lubbockiYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Multicolor velvet wrasseCirrhilabrus cyanopleuraYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Mystery wrassePseudocheilinus ocellatusYes
Orange-back fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus aurantidorsalisYes
Pastel-green wrasseHalichoeres chloropterusWith Caution
Pinkface wrasseThalassoma quinquevittatumWith Caution
Potter's wrasseMacropharyngodon geoffroyiYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Red coris wrasseCoris gaimardNo
Red-head fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus solorensisYes; feeds on tiny organisms
Red velvet wrasseCirrhilabrus rubrisquamisYes
Scarlet pin stripe wrassePseudocheilinus evanidusYes
Six line wrassePseudocheilinus hexataeniaYesSmall pink fish with six purple horizontal lines.
Radiant wrasseHalichoeres iridisYes
Rhomboid fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus rhomboidalisYesGolden body with purple horizontal stripes on head.
Whip fin fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus filamentosusYes
Yellow wrasseHalichoeres chrysusYesYellow body with three or occasionally four black dots on dorsal fins. Require sand bed for sleeping.
Yellow & purple wrasseHalichoeres trispilusYes
Yellowband wrasseCirrhilabrus luteovittatusYes
Yellow fin fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus flavidorsalisYes
Yellow-flanked fairy wrasseCirrhilabrus lyukyuensisYes