Maki Yūkō
Maki Yūkō, also known as Maki Aritsune, was a Japanese mountain climber.Career
Maki climbed Mount Fuji at the age of ten. He made many climbs in his teens, including Mount Aso. He established a climbing club while studying law at Keio University in Tokyo, from which he graduated in 1919. He continued his studies in the United States and Great Britain.
Besides numerous climbs in Switzerland in the period from 1919 to 1921, on 10 September 1921 he made the first ascent of the Eiger by the Mittellegigrat with mountain guides Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand and Fritz Steuri. He made a donation of 10,000 Swiss francs toward the construction of the Mittellegi Hut.
In 1922 he made the first winter ascent of Mount Yari in Japan. In 1925, with five other Japanese mountaineers and three Swiss mountain guides, he made the first ascent of Mount Alberta in the Canadian Rockies. The expedition was sponsored by Prince Chichibu.
In 1926 he was again in the Alps, making the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Zmuttgrat and climbing with Prince Chichibu.
Maki's climbing career was interrupted by World War II, preventing him from leading a Japanese expedition to the Himalayas. In 1956 Maki led the third Japanese expedition to the Nepalese mountain Manaslu. Expedition members Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu made the first ascent of Manaslu on 9 May 1956.Publications
