Moroccan kaftan is a traditional Moroccan outfit. In the form of a long tunic, in general with long sleeves, worn with a belt which can be extended under a lot of styles and colors. The Moroccan kaftan results from the expertise of craftsmen and dressmakers of the country, under the influence of Berber and Andalusian cultures, it has become also a part of the booming Moroccan textile sector, which accounts for 30% of the country's industrial employment and 15% of its exports.. It is considered to be the ultimate formal attire for Moroccan women during ceremonies. Moroccan stylists have modernized the traditional kaftan by adapting it to the particularities of the current era. The Moroccan kaftan has gained popularity after being introduced by major clothing lines, and stylists, through prestigious fashion shows, such as the Oriental Fashion Show during "Fashions week " around the world; as well as the promotion work of Moroccan magazines like "Femmes du Maroc". Nowadays, the Moroccan kaftan popularity has exceeded the country's borders. It is exported in large quantities abroad.
History
In Morocco, the kaftan is a very old tradition and deeply rooted in the country's clothing habits. Indeed, this dress appeared in the 13th century at the time of the Marinid dynasty, when it was worn by Moroccan royalty. Its name and distant roots are said to be found in the Persian heritage introduced to Morocco and Andalus by Muslim conquerors. But the evolution and the feminization of this habit in Morocco made it a very different garment from the Persian and Ottoman caftans. From the beginning of the 13th century, there were 3,096 weaver in the city of Fez, Ibn Khaldun referred to the Marinid sultans `dar-al-tiraz~, which he called a Marinid innovation. Sultans of the Marinid dynasty of Morocco used to send brocade caftans as gifts to each new sultan of the Ottoman Empire, which were the first kaftans owned by the Ottoman sultans. During Saadi dynasty, new type of kaftan was introduced by sultan Ahmad al-Mansur that took the name of Al Mansouria as reference to his name, also in his era the kaftan was adopted by the general public.
Types and styles
The kaftan has become a masterpiece for Moroccan city dwellers. Carved from beautiful materials imported from Europe, and worn by dignitaries and the notables of the great Moroccan cities. Originally, only the sultans and their wives had the privilege of obtaining such an expensive garment, since the seamstresses spent months shaping it, embroidering it, beading it by hand, in noble weavings and with gold and silver thread. The kaftan, commonly worn by Moroccan men and women, is an everyday garment. However, the holiday one was enriched with trimmings of gold and silver threads. All city dwellers had to wear their kaftan in the afternoon. They met in their homes or on the terraces of houses to exchange their impressions on things or just to get occupied with their hobbies such as embroidery. The caftan texture can be extracted from sheet, velvet, brocaded silk, sateen or cotton, textiles which are made locally or imported from Europe or the Orient for the rarest. In the XVIIth century, during the reign of Moulay Ismaïl, the merchants of the big cities brought in large quantities of fine silk and wool sheets, of all colors and all kinds, such as brocade, velvet, striped or plain taffeta and scarlet. Morocco has preserved its ancestral craftsmanship and expertise such as weaving, embroidery and trimmings like the Ben Cherif family who maintained the back-strap weaving technique, the making of gold and silver thread and embroidery, which is currently experiencing a clear development. The Moroccan Jewish kaftan, is that of Fez made of gold thread embroidery called "n’taâ". The Moroccan stylists were able to adapt their skills to the changing times. Today the kaftan is designed to be more tight and cut closer to the body, to better fit the silhouette, as a result, it has become a modern and elegant garment, easy to wear, but adorned with a prestige that derives its origins from the legendary past. It remains the privileged item of clothing for Moroccan women, whether young or old. The Moroccan caftan is now a skillful combination of elegance, refinement and comfort, yet the past is not denied. Moroccan kaftans can be worn on special or official occasions, depending on the used materials.
Moroccan caftan in the Ottaman Empire
The history of textile production in Turkey dates back to the Ottoman period. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, textile production was widespread and very advanced. Until the fall of the empire, the Ottoman industry was heavily dependent on textile production, it was a clear indication for the importance of the sector. Though the Ottoman Empire did not extend to Morocco, the sultans of the Marinid dynasty sent luxurious gifts to the Ottoman sultans. The name of Morocco was associated with the name of Fez ; the Ottomans welcomed the silk caftan and named it,up to the present, Fas Kaftanlar.
