In the Hawaiian language, pū-pū denotes a relish, appetizer, canapé, or hors d'oeuvre; it originally meant "shell fish', but also referred to small bits of fish, chicken, or banana relish served with kava and beans.
In Hawaiian cuisine
Since the introduction of commercial dining and drinking establishments in Hawaii, pūpū were, and remain, standard fare in island establishments. An establishment that serves "heavy pupus" will often have a buffet table with warming trays full of chicken, tempura vegetables, shrimp, poke, small skewers of teriyaki meat or chicken, sushi, and other similar finger foods. An establishment that serves "light pupus" usually will offer only the cold foods such as poke, sushi, and vegetables. Some establishments will serve pūpū to the table. At Hawaiian bar, restaurants, catered events such as political rallies, and private parties, establishments, and hosts are known in "local" circles by the quality of their pupus. Event invitations often will state that "light pupus" or "heavy pupus" will be served so that attendees will know whether they should plan to have a full meal before the event or not. Today, the simple platter of dried fish, grilled chicken, and slices of banana has evolved into chefs' offerings of international delicacies arranged for visual as well as gustatory pleasure. Modern pupu platters can hold offerings of anything from traditional Hawaiian fare to exotic combinations.
At the height of the tiki bar/restaurant craze, the New York Herald Tribune published several articles concerning the opening and the ambiance of one of the first Hawaiian themed restaurants in New York City, Luau 400, on East 57th Street. At the time of the restaurant's opening in 1957, pu pu platters were considered a part of the luau feast. A typical platter at this establishment would have included baked clams, rumaki, Shrimp Vela, chicken wings, egg rolls, spare ribs, or Javanese sate on skewers. The appetizers were served on "a Lazy Susan made of monkey pod wood and equipped with a little stove fired with charcoal briquettes." Recipes for some of the pu pu items were later published in the Herald Tribune in 1960. At one 21st-century tiki bar, the pu pu platter includes "Samoan deviled eggs, Chinese sausage and stick rice arancini, coconut shrimp and chilies stuffed with pork sausage."