In northern Ethiopia, the home-brewn siwa strongly resists the rise of lager beers. The traditional siwa remains the topper during social events, after work, and as an incentive for farmers and labourers. Thousands of traditional beer houses straddle the Tigrayan urban and rural landscapes.
In almost every rural household of Tigray in north Ethiopia, the woman knows how to prepare the local beer, siwa in Tigrinya language. Basic ingredients are water, a home-baked and toasted flat bread commonly made from barley in the highlands, and from sorghum, finger millet or maize in the lowlands, some yeast, and dried leaves of gesho that serve as a catalyser. The brew is allowed to ferment for a few days, after which it is served, sometimes with the pieces of bread floating on it. The alcoholic content is 2% to 5%. Siwa has a smoky flavour and a typical sourness, bitterness and sweetness. Most of the coarser part of the brew, the atella, remains back and is used as cattle feed.
Variants
''Siwa'' drinking style
Receptacles
The three traditional bowls in which siwa is served are: clay beakers, hollowed gourds, and, less frequently, cattle horns. In recent times, plastic or metal beakers and tins have become much in use. Meknen is commonly served in one-litre glass bottles. The siwa itself is conserved in large clay vases, called etriro, which tend to get replaced with plastic drums. In the hotter lowlands, the etriro continues to be used, because it has the particularly to keep the brew fresh.
When farmers go to plough their land, and even more when threshing their crop, there will always be siwa for the whole crew of farmers. Typically at house construction sites, the owner of the construction will also serve siwa to the labourers.
Social events
Siwa is traditionally served at every social event. Typically the cups are filled up to the edge, and the organiser of the party will make sure that they are refilled before the guest can empty his or her cup.
''Inda Siwa'', the traditional beer house
Almost every settlement in Tigray holds one or more Inda Siwa, which serve as local bars and which generate off-farm income. Low seats are foreseen around the walls of the room; people drink in group and chat while sipping their siwa. Commonly after some drinks tongues gets loose. If a newcomer joins the group of customers, all will politely welcome him, and invite him to sit with them. The owner of the business, mostly a woman, tallies the number of consumptions per customer, and may get help from the customers to do her accounting. Frequently, adolescent boys or girls drop in to sell kollo or buqulti seasoned with senafiche. The consumption of these snacks will stimulate the customer to order additional siwa. Smaller inda siwa open only on fixed days of a week, but in any case, all inda siwa will be open on market days. Many Inda Siwa are established in traditional houses, built in natural stone, with a heavy roof of stones and earth, a central wooden column, and a wooden door. Visiting inda siwa is a unique occasion of admiring the traditional house building style of the Tigrayans.
Competition by industrial beers
As living standards increase, the wealthier farmers frequently prefer drinking lager beer. Industrial breweries have seen this emerging market, and prepared specific brands, targeted at farmers: Balageru and Azmera beers. Yet, siwa remains popular; a 2014 music video clip "Siwa Embeytey" documents the production process and the social function of siwa.
