Varroville (homestead)


Varroville is a heritage-listed former farm and now rural residence at 196 St Andrews Road, Varroville in the City of Campbelltown local government area of New South Wales, Australia. It was designed by Weaver and Kemp and built from 1810 to 1859. It is also known as Varro Ville and Varra Ville. The property is privately owned. It was added to the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999.

History

The Cowpastures

When the first fleet arrived in Sydney Cove in 1788 they found the soil unsuitable for farming and soon looked towards the heavy clay and loam soils of the Cumberland Plain to sustain the colony. Early agricultural settlements were located on the rich alluvial soils of the Nepean, Hawkesbury and Georges River areas, as well as South Creek near St.Marys and at the head of the Parramatta River where the settlement of Rose Hill was established about six months after the fleet landed. A settlement at the Hawkesbury was established in 1794.
By 1804 much of the Cumberland Plain had been settled and Governor King began to look for other regions in the colony for favourable arable land. The only suitable land within the Cumberland Plain was the area known as the Cowpastures, located in the southwestern corner. This area was named after the discovery in 1795 of cows from the first fleet which had wandered off into the bush. The Cowpastures had remained unoccupied due to the official decree that reserved the land for the wild cattle.
In December 1803 Governor and Mrs King visited the Cowpastures for themselves and the Sydney Gazette reported that Mrs King was the first "white lady" to have crossed the Nepean River. The track to the Cowpastures led from Prospect and on 17 September 1805 James Meehan, under instructions from Governor King, commenced a survey of the track from Prospect to the Nepean Crossing and a rough road followed the marked line. This became known as Cowpasture Road, later the Hume Highway, most of which is today part of the Camden Valley Way.
Several visits to the area by the colonial gentry took place at this time, which resulted in their desire to acquire some of this rich land for themselves. They saw the area as containing very good grazing land. Captain Henry Waterhouse described the area in a letter to John Macarthur in 1804 as follows: "I am at a loss to describe the face of the country other than as a beautiful park, totally divested of underwood, interspersed with plains, with rich luxuriant grass".
Earlier Europeans had described "large ponds covered with ducks and the black swan, the margins of which were fringed with shrubs of the most delightful tints". The Europeans thought the flats were perfect for cattle and the hills would carry sheep. They admired the absence of underbush - probably achieved through Aboriginal burning off - and felt comfortable with a landscape that reminded them of an English gentleman's park.
John Macarthur received the first land grant in the Cowpastures region in 1805 for his role in the early wool industry in the colony. Lord Camden rewarded him with and Macarthur chose the highly coveted Cowpastures for his grant, though Governor King tried to prevent him taking it. Macarthur also organised a grant for his friend Walter Davidson, who allowed Macarthur to use his land freely after Davidson returned to England. In this manner Macarthur controlled of riverbank on the site where the wild cattle had first discovered the best pasture near Sydney. Later purchases and exchanges increased the Macarthur land there to over, an endowment that Governor Macquarie greatly resented.
Other early grants were in the Parishes of Minto and in adjoining Evan, Bringelly, Narellan and Cook. These all lay west of Parramatta.
Governor Macquarie drew up plans in 1820 for establishment of a town in the area, to be named Campbelltown after his wife Elizabeth's maiden name. With their forced return to England in 1822 these plans never came to fruition and it was not until the arrival of Governor Darling in 1827 that plans were again reinstated and the first settlers were allowed to take possession of their town land in 1831. In the early 1850s the railway line from Sydney to Goulburn was completed, with a station opening at Campbelltown in 1858. When Leppington House was offered for lease in 1865, one of its selling points was that it was near a railway. Campbelltown now provided easy access to Sydney and its markets and grew as the centre of the district. Although Camden was established in 1836, with no railway line it remained a small town.
The large estates that flanked Cowpasture Road and the Northern Road were run largely as sheep and cattle farms, with wheat and other grain crops being grown as well until the 1850s. The houses were often built on surrounding ridges or hills, providing sweeping views of the countryside and ensuring that any passing traveller could appreciate the owner's status by viewing their impressive country mansions from the road. This land use pattern of large farm estates and small towns, established in the nineteenth century, remained largely the pattern of development of the area up until the late 1990s. Aerial photographs of the area in 1947 show a rural landscape with some limited urban development on either side of the Camden Valley Way.

Townson of Varroville

Robert Townson was born in Shropshire, developing interests in mineralogy and natural sciences young. Elected a non-resident member or Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh in 1791, Physical class. He graduated M.D. at Gottingen University in 1795. Over 8–9 years he travelled extensively in Europe, from Trondheim in the north to Sicily, studying mineralogy, chemistry, botany, rural economy, technology, politics and ethics in the Universities of Gottingen, Vienna, Paris and Edinburgh. His "Travels in Hungary" was published in 1797, his 1798 "The Philosophy of Mineralogy" and a paper on the "perceptivity of Plants" was read in 1792 and included in the "Transactions" of the Linnaean Society.
In July 1807 Townson, doctor of law and gentleman scientist arrived in Sydney. He had been elected a fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh and visited the universities of Copenhagen, Uppsala and Gottingen. In 1792 he contributed a paper to the Linnaean Society of London on the "Perceptivity of Plants". "He was often at the home of Sir Joseph Banks and had there met William Paterson of the New South Wales Corps. His brother, Captain John Townson had served as a military officer in NSW before migrating to the colony as a settler in 1806, so he had ample opportunities to learn about the new settlement. Robert approached the British government for permission to settle in NSW. He was warmly received, informed that he was the type most urgently needed in the colony, promised land and indulgences, and allowed £100 to buy books and a laboratory for the colony. Dr Townson arrived in Sydney in the Young William on 7 July 1807. Proficient in all branches of natural science and also in Latin, Greek, German, French, he was the most eminent scholar in the young colony."
Townson arrived as a settler intending to establish himself as a pastoralist and trader in 1807. He arrived with the instructions of the British Secretary of State to Governor Bligh to grant him. Bligh refused to "locate the grant", but allowed him occupancy while awaiting instructions from England, which arrived in a letter of 31 December 1807. He established himself on a small estate of on the banks of the Georges River, living there for about five years, building a residence, stock yard, making and enclosing paddocks and making roads. He called this grant Towweery.
In January 1808 Townson, affronted at Bligh's delay over the granting of land, became 'an opponent of Bligh, and when rebellion took place some months later he was judged one of the principal six "who previously concerted together with Major Johnston the arrest and imprisonment of the Governor". He was present at the dinner at the officers' mess on the eve of the trial of John Macarthur which precipitated the revolt he signed the requisition to Johnston to depose Bligh on 26 January 1808' He "soon fell out with the rebel administration. Johnston refused to give him the land he wanted at Emu Island, near Penrith; though he was given at Botany Bay near the present Blakehurst and twenty-eight government cattle, he claimed that only half the grant was of any use, and his long complaints against Bligh written in 1807 and 1808 were followed by another, equally querulous, in 1809 against his supplanters."
Overlooked in the grants made by Johnston in 1808, he received two grants from Foveaux in November 1808, both in the Botany Bay district, one of, the other of around the present Oatley station, Mortdale, Penshurst and Hurstville.' He had six assigned convicts.
In 1809, finding this land unsuitable he applied to William Paterson for some adjacent land, of. Since his land had poor pasture, he was obliged to send his flock away to other ground, and a few months before Macquarie's arrival he asked Paterson to allow him to exchange of his grant for some more open land "in a distant part of the colony". Paterson allowed him to take up for the, giving him a total of. This he chose was in the Minto district, and was the origin of Varro Ville.
James Meehan surveyed Varro Ville in August 1809, mentioning the hill of Bunbury Curran, a range, flats and hollows, hills and dales, ponds and ironbark trees, and the creek. A road was to be reserved on the south-east side. The grant was ready for delivery in November 1809'. 'Townson later confirmed that he had immediately occupied the land, "employed a great deal of labour, and expended a great deal of money" in building a horse yard, cultivating a large garden, clearing and fencing paddock and making roads.
Macquarie on his arrival annulled by public proclamation the trials which had taken place during the usurpation, which Townson named Varro Ville after the Roman writer on agriculture, Marcus Terentius Varro. The stated reason was that Varro wrote extensively on agriculture and Townson was intent on making Varroville an exemplar of agricultural pursuit, which, according to his obituaries and official biography, he achieved.
In November 1810 Governor Macquarie toured the area were "by far the finest soil and best pasturage I have yet seen in the colony; the grounds are beautiful and bounded by a large creek of brackish water called Bunbury Curran". This difference of opinion on siting reflects the different characters of Macquarie and Townson - the former masterful and dashing, would have chosen a prominent site with an extensive view, the latter a scholar, preferring seclusion and proximity to oversight his crops and orchard.
Varro was a famous man of letters. Authors like Quintilian considered him "the most learned of the Romans". He wrote 74 works on 620 papyrus rolls on several subjects, but practically none have survived. His lost "On Libraries", in which he describes the organisation of a library and gives reasons for defining books as cultural artefacts, is one of the earliest discussions of the subject.
Since these grants were made on the customary condition that the land be cultivated and not sold for five years, Townson again felt aggrieved. He had been living on his capital for nearly four years and was afraid of penury. He sought permission to sell his land and return to England. In the end he remained but developed a psychopathic personality. He subordinated everything to the development of his farms, shut himself off from society and apparently did no scientific work in New South Wales. He became "singular" and eccentric and his rigid economy became a byword. He also nursed undue hostility towards all who had contributed to his critical situation; Macquarie described him as "discontented" and one of his leading opponents, though there is no evidence that Townson took part in intrigues against him'.
March 1812 'In March 1812 it would appear that Townson had not yet built his house. "This state of uncertainty on George's River, Townson had relocated to Minto by 1813 and had made the "necessary establishment" there. He had managed to keep his six convicts for five years on the Government stores, gaining extensions from Macquarie in 1810 and 1811.
Townson was associated with the development of the Australian wine industry, having been once known as 'the finest orchard in the Colony and a vineyard second only to Gregory Blaxland's' at Brush Farm, Ryde. He made very good use of his grant of at Minto. "Black Muscardelle" grapes were cultivated and liberally distributed by merchant and viticulturist Robert Campbell. Robert Townson made a "passable sweet wine" from this grape at Bunbury Curran near 'Campbell-Town'and possibly also grew "Black Portugal" or 'Oporto'.
In 1815 Townson supplied meat to the Sydney, Liverpool and Parramatta stores. In the 1818 Muster of stock for 1818 "Townson had 214 head of horned cattle and 1961 sheep He had twenty-two acres in wheat, eight in maize, four in barley, two in potatoes and two in garden and orchard." Following drought Townson obtained a permit to pasture cattle across the mountains. In May 1821 he sent them south to a run that became Tiranna, Goulburn.
In October 1820 Townson offered property for sale " at Bunbury Curran, with a good house and offices and one of the best gardens in the colony. A great part is fenced in and divided into paddocks".
After Macquarie departed the colony, Townson began to take his rightful place in the community. In 1822 he became a foundation vice-president of the Agricultural Society and a member of its Horticultural and Stock Fund Committees. Varroville became a show place for its beauty, abundance and variety in orchard and garden; his vineyard was second only to that of Gregory Blaxland; his fine-wooled sheep and their clip were in great demand; his cattle were numerous and in the opinion of his contemporaries no single man had accomplished more in the rearing of stock'.

Timeline

Estate and setting

The approach to the siting of Varroville which avoided the house being silhouetted against the sky was endorsed by the horticulturalist and landscape designer, Thomas Shepherd when describing the siting of Elizabeth Bay House, Sydney, and later discussed by British writer on estate planning, John Claudius Loudon whose writings were influential in colonial New South Wales. Varroville is oriented east-west, taking advantage of vistas to other Cumberland Plain homesteads, Denham Court and Macquarie Field House. The locally named Scenic Hills describe the picturesque rolling country selected as the location of the Varroville grant.

Garden

In the immediate surrounds of the house, the gravelled carriage drive, lawn tennis court site, remains of a glasshouse and plantings are elements of a substantially intact mid-19th century garden plan. The carriage loop appears to relate to the 1858 house. It does not connect with the drive that passes in front of it to the east, but this "disconnection" may relate to Jackaman period changes. Perimeter fence lines and gates have been relocated during the Jackaman period.
Hardy Wilson described "Varraville" as "an Early-Victorian homestead encompassed by many oleanders". The garden contains staples of Cumberland Plain gardening - Moreton Bay figs, hoop pines funeral cypresses , white cedars, pepper trees, coral trees, a Norfolk Island hibiscus /white oak, orchid tree, century plants/agaves , Spanish bayonets/Adam's needles, aloes and hedges of Cape honeysuckle/tecoma and common African olive.
The kitchen garden laid out in 1809 and described in Sturt's 1839 sale advertisement may have occupied sloping ground to the north - west of the house.
The oldest colonial plantings appear to be located in the tennis court area east of the house, which is supports the current owners' view that this is the most likely site of the second house on the property. Landscape architect Geoffrey Britton advises that Varroville's Indian shot/ Canna lily is the species plant and that was located en masse on the far slope of what is now a herbaceous border on the southern bank above the tennis court. Geoffrey also considers that the Cypress located on the entrance there is very old. Aside from the figs and hoop pines and re-seeded white cedars, the rest of the garden is largely of the Jackaman era planted out in the 1950s and early 1960s. C.japonica on site is likely also to be remnant progeny of an early colonial planting as there are many in the tennis court area, along with cotoneasters. Cotoneasters could have been put there by the Jackamans, as Cherry Jackaman apparently had cotoneasters espaliered down the northern side of the house.
There are two arbors in the garden - an old arbour with an enormous Banksia rose which was replaced by the previous owners and a second arbour and wisteria is now propped up with iron bars.

Outbuildings

The outbuildings may date from ; 1813 ; or later. These include a coach house. The buildings may lie outside SHR boundary to the east.

House

Varroville, occupying the site of a previous s house has important relationships with features associated with the Townson, Wills and Sturt periods of ownership and occupancy of the estate - the original driveway from Campbelltown Road, outbuildings grouped in relation to the entrance drive on the ridge to the southern side of the house, the remnant vineyard terracing that wraps around the hillside in view of the house, a track to Bunbury Curran Hill, post and rail fences and dams and modified watercourses believed to have been made by the explorer, Charles Sturt.
The house occupies a narrow ridge on the south side of Bunbury Curran Hill, a landmark that led Townson to refer to Varroville as his property at "Bunbury Curran". Bunbury Curran Hill was climbed by Governor and Mrs Macquarie in November 1810 to take advantage of views across the Cumberland Plain to Sydney. The hill, clad in bush, has evidently played a significant role in the landscape design of Varroville, providing a dramatic backdrop to the house when approached from the south. The landscape design of Varroville was discussed between Townson and the Macquaries in 1810.
Varroville House is a substantial single-storey symmetrical rendered brick house in a "U" shape with two rear wings on a stone foundation by the architects, Weaver and Kemp and dating from 1858-9. Its room uses are known from an 1876 sale advertisement. The fabric of the house is intact with surviving blackbutt floors, cedar joinery, plaster ceiling roses and imported marble chimneypieces. The roof, originally shingled, is now covered with corrugated iron. The house appears to occupy the site of a previous house and the kitchen of the northern wing incorporates the sandstone chimneypiece of a previous service wing. A large underground water tank extends westwards from the ends of the wings of the house.

Condition

As at 8 August 2007, the fabric of the house is intact with surviving blackbutt floors, cedar joinery, plaster ceiling roses and imported marble chimneypieces. The roof, originally shingled, is now covered with corrugated iron.

Modifications and dates

The house appears to occupy the site of a previous house and the kitchen of the northern wing incorporates the sandstone chimneypiece of a previous service wing.
The oldest colonial plantings appear to be located in the tennis court area east of the house, which is supports the current owners' view that this is the most likely site of the second house on the property.
Aside from the figs and hoop pines and re-seeded white cedars, the rest of the garden is largely of the Jackaman era planted out in the 1950s and early 1960s. C.japonica on site is likely also to be remnant progeny of an early colonial planting as there are many in the tennis court area.
The land falls under Campbelltown Local Environmental Plan District 8 - - the majority is zoned 7 ; the remainder zoned 6c.

Heritage listing

As at 21 May 2007, 'Varroville is a 'celebrated early farm estate dating from 1810 with early structures, the 1850s homestead, layout, agricultural terracing and evidence of early access road.'
'Varroville is rare as one of the few larger estate landscapes remaining in the Campbelltown area where the form of the original grant and the former agricultural use of the estate and its rural landscape character may be appreciated.'
Varroville was a significant to the horticultural development of New South Wales through the laying out of a productive kitchen garden in 1809 noted for its extensive fruit varieties by the early 1820s and the establishment of a vineyard, said to be second only to that of Gregory Blaxland of Brush Farm, Eastwood. The vineyard terraces are extant and together with the early drive suggest that the present 1858 house occupies the site of the earlier 1810s house. Accounts relating to Charles Sturt's ownership indicate the property's continued role in the acclimatisation of plants sourced from as far afield as Calcutta.
Varroville was significant to agriculture and food production in early New South Wales. The grants of land at Minto were made by Colonel Paterson in response to the Hawkesbury floods of 1806 and later, aiming to safeguard the colony's food supplies. A significant portion of Varroville was used for growing crops in the c. 1810s-1830s period. Townson supplied meat to the Sydney, Liverpool and Parramatta commissariat stores.
Macquarie commented that the farms of Townson and Andrew Thompson were "by far the best pasturage I have yet seen in the colony". The gently rolling hills of the two properties appealed to English Picturesque sensibilities and today is reflected in the locality name, Scenic Hills, defined under the Campbelltown Local Environment Plan - District 8. This plan aims 'to ensure that the Central Hills Lands District of the City of Campbelltown retains the rural character that was envisaged for it during the planning that preceded the urbanisation of that City.'
'The still appreciable direct viewline from the 1850s Varroville homestead to the landmark Araucarias of both nearby Denham Court and Macquarie Fields House appears to be a deliberate siting intention.'.
Varroville house is sited as "a house in landscape" according to estate planning principles put forward by British landscape designers Humphrey Repton in the 1790s-1810s and John Claudius Loudon in the 1820s-40s. The house is sited to take advantage of sweeping, wrap-around views of the scenic hills from Raby Road in the west to Bunbury Curran Hill in the north and to an extending ridgeline of the range to the east. The important western view dominates the entry through the front door and across the rear courtyard.
Varroville, through the Sturt dams and modified watercourses, accounts from the Sturt period and the large underground water tank c. 1858 that extends westwards from the ends of the wings of the house illustrates early recognition of the importance of water conservation to colonists in New South Wales and South Australia. Sturt's accounts relate to the great drought of the 1830s that led to the depression of the early 1840s that was devastating to early NSW society.
Varroville is significant for the relationship between the house and its group of farm buildings, sited in relation to each other on the ridge. The location of the outbuildings along the entrance drive reflect Augustus Earle's c. 1829 watercolour view of Lieut William Lawson's Veteran Hall, Prospect and Mrs Charles Meredith's description of Homebush in the 1840s with barns, stables and estate worker's cottages and other "ornamental edifices" being visible en route to the house. Both Veteran Hall and Homebush have since been demolished.
The house dating from 1858-9 is a significant example of the work of William Weaver, former Government Architect 1854-56. The firm, Weaver and Kemp, also designed Jarvisfield, Picton and Burundulla, Mudgee. The fabric of the house is intact with surviving blackbutt floors, cedar joinery, plaster ceiling roses and imported marble chimneypieces. The roof, originally shingled, is now covered with corrugated iron. The house appears to occupy the site of a previous house and the kitchen of the northern wing incorporates the sandstone chimneypiece of a previous service wing. With the exception of generously scaled rooms and plate glass windows, the symmetrical Italianate villa is architecturally conservative. This, and the large underground watertank at the end of the wings may reflect Weaver's engineering training.
The garden immediately surrounding the house is a substantially intact mid-19th century plan with a gravelled carriage drive, lawn tennis court site c. 1870?, remains of a glasshouse and a trellis. Perimeter fence lines and gates have been relocated post 1950 but the original locations are well documented in photographs of c. 1935.
Hardy Wilson described "Varraville" as "an Early-Victorian homestead encompassed by many oleanders". The pink oleander at the north-east corner of the house was extant in 1950 and may have been one of the oleanders described by Hardy Wilson. The garden contains staples of Cumberland Plain gardening: Moreton Bay figs, hoop pines, funeral cypresses, white cedars, pepper trees, a Norfolk Island hibiscus, Bauhinia, agaves, yuccas, aloes and hedges of cape honeysuckle and common olive. The Queensland rain forest tree, Barclaya syringifolia, may survive from the c. 1890s - 1910 period.
Varroville received important early 20th century literary and artistic recognition as a major homestead of the Cumberland Plain through its inclusion on the parchment map that provides the key to W. Hardy Wilson's romance, "The Cowpasture Road". The fictional postmaster, Raymond Plenty in The Cowpasture Road is no doubt inspired by James Raymond, owner of Varroville 1839-1851, and the reference to the squires having chased Governor Bligh under his bed may be a reference to Townson.
Varroville is 'historically important for its association with prominent owners Dr Robert Townson, Charles Sturt, James Raymond and Alfred Cheeke and for its relationship with Bunbury Curran Hill - a viewing point used by both Governor and Mrs Macquarie.' Varroville during the Raymond, Cheeke and Jackaman periods was a prestigious country estate for owners whose wealth came from other sources. Between c. 1876 and 1950 the property was operated as a dairy, and was representative of rural industry in the Campbelltown area. The property presently retains its rural character.
Varroville was listed on the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999 having satisfied the following criteria.
The place is important in demonstrating the course, or pattern, of cultural or natural history in New South Wales.
Varroville has historic significance for its association with Robert Townson, the colony's most highly regarded academic when he arrived as a settler intending to establish himself as a pastoralist and trader in 1807, and with the development of the Australian wine industry, having been once known as 'the finest orchard in the Colony and a vineyard second only to Gregory Blaxland's'. Townson was granted 1000 acres at Minto and made very good use of it. Governor Macquarie was very impressed when he visited Varroville on his first inspection of the interior in 1810.

Attribution