Laksa
Laksa is a spicy noodle soup popular in the Peranakan cuisine of Southeast Asia. Laksa consists of thick wheat noodles or rice vermicelli with chicken, prawn or fish, served in spicy soup based on either rich and spicy curry coconut milk or on sour asam. Laksa is found in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand.
Origin
The name comes from the Hokkien luak sua, meaning "spicy sand", which refers to the taste and texture of ground dried prawns. However some etymologists believe the word laksa comes from an ancient Persian word for "noodles".There are various theories about the origins of laksa. One theory connected laksa to the 15th century Ming Chinese naval expeditions led by Zheng He, whose armada navigated Maritime Southeast Asia. Overseas Chinese migrants had settled in various parts of Maritime Southeast Asia, long before Zheng He's expedition. However, it was after this that the number of Chinese migrants and traders significantly increased. These Chinese men intermarried into the local populations, and together they formed mixed-race communities called the Peranakans or Straits Chinese.
In Malaysia, the dish is believed to have been introduced by Chinese immigrants in Malacca.
In Singapore, the dish is believed to have been created after interaction between the Peranakans with the local Singaporeans.
In Indonesia, the dish is believed to have been born from the Chinese coastal settlements and the mixing of cultures between Chinese merchants and the local cooking practices. Historians believe laksa is a dish that was born from actual intermarriage. In early coastal pecinan in maritime Southeast Asia, it was only Chinese men that ventured abroad out from China to trade. When settling down in the new town, these Chinese traders and sailors set out to find local wives, and these women began incorporating local spices and coconut milk into Chinese noodle soup served to their husbands. This creates the hybrid Chinese-local culture called Peranakan culture. As Peranakan Chinese communities have blended their ancestors' culture with local culture, Peranakan communities in different places now demonstrate diversity according to the local flavour.
Because laksa has different varieties across the region, it is difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of the dish. Nevertheless, numbers of laksa recipes has been developed along the trade channels of Southeast Asia—where the ports of Penang, Medan, Malacca, Singapore, Palembang, and Batavia are the major stops along the historic spice route. The intensive trade links among these port cities enables exchanges of ideas to take place, including sharing recipes.
Popularity
Various recipes of laksas have gained popularity in Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia; and subsequently international recognition. Initially in July 2011, CNN Travel ranked Penang Asam Laksa 7th out of the 50 most delicious foods in the world. Its rank however, fell to number 26th after CNN held an online poll by 35,000 people, published in September 2011. Singaporean Curry Laksa on the other hand ranked in number 44th.In Indonesia, laksa is a traditional comfort food; the spicy warm noodle soup is much appreciated during cold rainy days. However, its popularity is somewhat overshadowed by soto, a similar hearty warm soup dish, which is often consumed with rice instead of noodles. In modern households, it is common practice to mix and match the recipes of laksas; if traditional laksa noodle is not available, Japanese udon noodles might be used instead.
Laksa is a popular dish in Darwin, Australia, and the first Darwin International Laksa Festival was held in November 2019.
Types
The type of laksa is based upon the soup base employed in its recipe; either rich and savoury coconut milk, fresh and sour asam, or the combination of the two. There are three basic types of laksa: curry laksa, asam laksa, and other variant that can be identified as either curry or asam laksa. Curry laksa is a coconut milk curry soup with noodles, while asam laksa is a sour, most often tamarind-based, soup with noodles. Thick rice noodles also known as laksa noodles are most commonly used, although thin rice vermicelli are also common, and some recipes might create their own rice noodle from scratch. Some variants might use other types of noodles; Johor laksa for example uses spaghetti, while a fusion recipe might use Japanese udon noodle.Curry laksa
Curry laksa is a coconut-based curry soup. The main ingredients for most versions of curry laksa include bean curd puffs, fish sticks, shrimp, and cockles. Some vendors may sell chicken laksa. Laksa is commonly served with a spoonful of sambal chilli paste and garnished with Vietnamese coriander, or "laksa leaf, which is known in Malay as daun kesum.This is usually known as curry mee in Penang rather than curry laksa, due to the different kind of noodles used. Curry mee in Penang uses congealed pork blood, a delicacy to the Malaysian Chinese community.
The term "curry laksa" is more commonly used in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Laksa is quite popular in Singapore, and curry laksa or nyonya laksa can be simply served as plain laksa, with just noodles and gravy, or with additional ingredients. Singaporean curry laksa ranked in number 44th of CNN World's 50 best foods. Recently, several modern twist of curry laksa has been developed, such as laksa yong tau foo which is stuffed tofu laksa, and a premium upgrade of lobster laksa.
In Indonesia, most laksa variants are coconut-milk-based soups and thus can be categorised as curry laksa. Common spices include turmeric, coriander, candlenut, lemongrass, garlic, shallot, and pepper cooked in coconut milk. Widely available daun kemangi is commonly used instead of daun kesum. Bihun or thin rice vermicelli is most commonly used noodle instead of thick rice noodle, and some recipe might add slices of ketupat or lontong rice cake. Bogor laksa uses ground oncom into its soup.
Variants of curry laksa include:
- Laksa lemak, also known as nyonya laksa, is a type of laksa with a rich coconut gravy. Lemak is a culinary description in the Malay language which specifically refers to the presence of coconut milk which adds a distinctive richness to a dish. As the name implies, it is made with a rich, slightly sweet and strongly spiced coconut gravy. Laksa lemak is usually made with a fish-based gravy and quite similar to Thai laksa, perhaps to the point that one could say they are one and the same.
- Laksam, also known in Thailand as lasae, a speciality of the Northeastern Malaysian states of Kelantan, Terengganu, and Kedah, is made with very thick flat white rice flour noodles in a rich, full-bodied white gravy of boiled fish and coconut milk. Though usually made of fish flesh, it is sometimes made with eels. Traditionally Laksa is eaten with hands rather than with eating utensils due to the gravy's thick consistency.
- Lakse kuah, is a variant of fish curry laksa, specialty of Natuna island, Riau Islands, Indonesia. Made of sagoo noodles with mashed tongkol or mackerel tuna flesh, served in spicy coconut milk curry made of spice mixture including dried chilies or fresh chilies, coriander, cumin, anise, shallot, garlic, ginger and turmeric.
- Katong laksa is a variant of laksa lemak. As the name suggests, this version originated from the Katong area in eastern Singapore in the 1960s. It has since spawned several franchises and stalls across the island. In Katong laksa, the noodles are normally cut up into smaller pieces so that the entire dish can be eaten with a spoon alone, without chopsticks or a fork. Another hallmark feature of this dish is gravy thickened not just with coconut milk but ground dried shrimp, which gives the soup its characteristic 'sandy' texture
- Bogor laksa perhaps is the most famous laksa variant in Indonesia from Bogor city, West Java. The thick yellowish coconut milk based soup is a mixture of shallot, garlic, kemiri, kunyit, ketumbar, sereh, and salt. Laksa Bogor has a distinct earthy and nutty flavour acquired from oncom. The hot soup runs, drained, and filled several times into the bowl contains bihun, ketupat, smashed oncom, tauge, kemangi, yellow tofu, and boiled egg, until all the ingredients is soft and cooked. The authentic and complete Bogor laksa would include cooked shredded chicken and ground dried prawn, the cheaper street-side version however is entirely vegetarian, without any chicken or prawn, since oncom is traditionally regarded as a meat-substitute. Usually Laksa Bogor is served with sambal cuka.
- Cibinong laksa is from Cibinong, a town between Bogor and Jakarta. It is come close to laksa Bogor, however no oncom is added. The soup is a yellowish coconut milk with a mixture of some spices, and it is served with bean sprout, rice vermicelli, hard-boiled eggs, cooked shredded chicken, fried shallots, and lots of Indonesian lemon-basil leaves. Sometime they are also served with rice cake, depending on customer's wishes.
- Betawi laksa is a Betawi laksa variant from Jakarta, Indonesia. The thick yellowish coconut milk based soup is a mixture of shallot, garlic,
- Palembang Lakso : The Palembang style laksa. Unlike laksan that uses slices of
Asam laksa
Asam laksa is a sour, fish and tamarind-based soup. Penang asam laksa listed at number 26 on "World's 50 most delicious foods" compiled by CNN Go in 2011. Asam is the Malay word for any ingredient that makes a dish taste sour. Laksa typically uses asam keping, known as kokum in the English speaking world, which is a type of dried slices of sour mangosteens. The modern Malay spelling is asam, though the spelling assam is still frequently used.The main ingredients for asam laksa include shredded fish, normally kembung, and finely sliced vegetables including cucumber, onions, red chillies, pineapple, lettuce, common mint, daun kesum, and pink bunga kantan. Asam laksa is normally served with either thick rice noodles or thin rice noodles and topped off with petis udang or hae ko, a thick sweet prawn-shrimp paste.
Variants of asam laksa include:
- Penang laksa, also known as asam laksa from the Malay for tamarind, comes from the Malaysian island of Penang. It is made with mackerel soup and its main distinguishing feature is the asam or tamarind which gives the soup a sour taste. The fish is poached and then flaked. Other ingredients that give Penang laksa its distinctive flavour include lemongrass, galangal and chilli. Typical garnishes include mint, pineapple slices, thinly sliced onion, petis udang or hae ko, a thick sweet prawn-shrimp paste and use of torch ginger flower. This, and not 'curry mee' is the usual 'laksa' one gets in Penang. Penang Laksa is listed at number 7 on the World's 50 best foodscompiled by CNN Go in July 2011
- Perlis laksa is similar to Penang laksa but differs in garnishing used such as catfish and eel fish. Perlis laksa can be found in Kuala Perlis.
- Kedah laksa is very similar to Penang laksa and only differs in the garnishing used. Sliced boiled eggs are usually added to the dish. Kedah laksa used rice to make a laksa noodle. The laksa in Kedah is Laksa Telok Kechai.
- Ipoh laksa, from the Malaysian city of Ipoh, is similar to Penang laksa but has a more sour taste, and contains prawn paste.
- Kuala Kangsar Laksa, made of wheat flour. The soup is rather lighter than the common laksa taste and so much different from Ipoh Laksa in shape, taste, and smell. The local municipal council built a complex called "Kompleks Cendol dan Laksa" near the river bank of the Perak River. It is the main attraction for tourists in Kuala Kangsar.
- Medan laksa, from Indonesian city of Medan, North Sumatra. Quite similar to asam laksa from Penang right across the strait, which also uses flaked ikan kembung, kecombrang, lemongrass, and chili pepper. It is quite differ however, by using asam gelugur instead of asam jawa, turmeric, adding terasi, shallot, garlic, and key lime.
Combination
- Sarawak laksa comes from the Malaysian state of Sarawak, on the island of Borneo. The prime ingredient is a paste made from a wide range of ingredients. It has a soup-base of sambal belacan, which contributes to its crimson colouring, adding both coconut milk and sour tamarind, garlic, galangal, lemon grass, topped with omelette strips, chicken strips, peeled boiled prawns, freshly chopped coriander leaves, and optionally lime. Ingredients such as bean sprouts, fried tofu or other seafood are not traditional but are sometimes added. Sarawak laksa is also commonly found in neighbouring Borneo states of Sabah and Brunei, and as a result some might be led to believe that there are distinct Sabah and Brunei laksa recipes, although it is actually identical to Sarawak laksa.
- Kelantan laksa, from Kelantan state in northeastern Malaysia. It has base of mackerel, thick coconut milk, stalks lemongrass, shallots, cloves garlic, slices dried tamarind, palm sugar, and salt.
- Johor laksa, from Johor state in southern Malaysia, only resembles Penang laksa in the kind of fish used but differs in everything else. Johor laksa has coconut milk, use kerisik, asam Gelugur, dried prawns, lemongrass, galangal, and spices akin to curry. The garnishing consists of slices of onion, beansprouts, daun selasih, Vietnamese coriander or daun kesum, cucumber, and pickled white radish. sambal belacan is placed on the side. Finally, just before eating, freshly squeezed lime juice is sprinkled on the dish. Unique to Johor laksa is its Italian connection – spaghetti is used instead of the normal rice noodles or vermicelli. Johor laksa is traditionally eaten using the hand and the noodles are usually knitted into a disk for each serving. Johor Laksa has been declared a Malaysian heritage food by the Malaysian Department of National Heritage.
- Terengganu laksa is the easiest laksa recipe that is famous among peoples from the town of Kuala Terengganu of the Terengganu state, located at the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The main ingredient of Terengganu laksa's sauce is ikan kembong or round scad mackerel that are boiled and minced. The minced fish are fried with onions, garlic, ginger, datil pepper, belacan, kantan flower, Vietnamese coriander or daun kesum, lemon grass, and dried tamarind slice. Coconut milk will then be added as the final ingredient and stirred until it is all mixed up and becomes thick. Terengganu laksa is served by adding ulam and blended chili on the side. Another variable of Terengganu Laksa is Laksam. The sauce's recipe are exactly the same but the noodles are a bit bigger and flat.
- Tambelan laksa from Tambelan Archipelago in Riau Islands province of Indonesia, off the west coast of West Kalimantan. It uses flaked sauteed ikan tongkol asap and lump of sagoo noodles, served in spicy coconut-based stock made of kerisik. Laksa Tambelan uses quite complex spice mixture, which includes sour asam kandis, daun kesum, shallot, garlic, chilli pepper, lemongrass, turmeric, clove, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise, galangal, coriander, caraway, black pepper, also anchovy and ground dried shrimp.
Summary table
Curry laksa | Asam laksa | Sarawak laksa |
Coconut milk is used | No coconut milk used | Coconut milk is used |
Curry-like soup | Fish paste soup, tastes sour due to tamarind | Red curry-like soup |
Except for bean sprouts, no other vegetable is used | Pineapple, shredded cucumber, raw onions may be used | Except for bean sprouts and fresh coriander as garnish, no other vegetable is used. |
Bean curd puff is used | No bean curd puff used | No bean curd puff used |
Served with thick or thin rice vermicelli. Occasionally served with yellow mee. | Served with thick or thin rice vermicelli | Served with thin rice vermicelli only |
Hard-boiled egg may be added | No hard-boiled egg added | Sliced omelette is used |
Slices of fish cake and either prawns or chicken are used | Fish, usually kembung, is used | Whole prawns and serrated chickens are used |
Variants
| Variants | VariantsLaksa is simply referred to or ordered at a restaurant as laksa or asam laksa. By default, laksa means the standard curry laksa while asam laksa refers to the standard Penang version. If a restaurant serves a non-standard version, the restaurant will qualify the laksa by the version being sold. For example, a restaurant serving Katong laksa will list Katong laksa on the menu.Similar dishes
Malaysian Tourism Board controversyIn 2009, as part of a national food branding exercise, Malaysian Minister of Tourism Ng Yen Yen attempted to claim ownership for regional dishes such as Laksa, Hainanese Chicken Rice, and Bak Kut Teh, claiming that others have "hijacked their dishes". This led to discontent with its regional neighbours. Ng later clarified that she was misquoted on her intention to patent the foods, and that a study on the origins of the foods would be conducted "and an apology conveyed if it was wrongly claimed." To date, the results of the study have not been made public.Recipes |